Was about to say the same. These are ace:
Not cheap but you will get frayed cables with shit cutters. They also crimp the end caps on properly where as they general will get cut accidentally
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I have those, they’re great.
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Yeah it says road / MTB.
I just wasn’t sure about cutting one end off and then having to thread through the casing with the frayed end.
So the thingy on the left end (the cylinder) is for MTB brakes, the butt plug on the right is for road. I would cut off the MTB one close, thread it through, then cut it to the required length
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Ok great. I have Birzman wire cutters which are decent.
Thanks gents.
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My TT bike has an annoying ‘feature’. Where the internal gear cabling exits the frame near the front derailleur is in a prime position to feed water down the cable and into the frame. With the bike set on my turbo, it spends all winter with sweat running down the cable and the cable has now jammed for the 3rd time. With a press-fit BB, it’s a bike shop service to get it sorted.
Can I put an electronic shifter on the front to remove the cabling? Naively thought I could just put an SRAM etap front derailleur and shifter and leave the rear 10spd cable in place, but my limited research suggests the etap TT shifters just do up/down and are not front/rear specific. What about di2? can that be front only?
I know I could convert the whole bike to electronic, but I am trying to keep the costs down and not sure my wheels can take an 11spd cassette. I can justify changing the front if it stops me having to go to the the bike shop every year to replace the cabling.
You could put an etap front mech and just run the blip box but it’s a bit of a hack. Is this just for the turbo or racing too?
No, this would be for outdoor. I barely change the front derailleur on the turbo, probably part of the issue.
Cheapest option would be to go for a 1x set-up - which is effectively what I have when it is stuck, and OK for 99% of my TT riding.
Blip box is an expensive hack. Even then, could it be set-up to just control just the front derailleur? From what I read the blips are up/down and the box decides whether to change front or rear cogs.
I don’t have eTap, but I thought you press up & down at the same time to move the front derailleur?
For an eTap TT setup you have a rear mech, front mech, blip box and the blips. The blips are just push button switches that wire to the blip box & go under the bar tape but the blip box has buttons also so you can press them instead if the blips. You cant have a TT setup without the blip box. I’ve seen some TTers where they dont even bother with the blip switches , just mount the blip box at the end of one of the TT bars.
This in all on the old 11speed setup not sure about the 12 speed.
I think I’m done with the chain waxing rigmarole.
It’s been pretty mild this winter so I’ve been out more and it just doesn’t protect the chain in these wet conditions. Rode on Sunday, cleaned and dried bike when I got back, checked it on Tuesday and everything looked OK. Looked again today and chain looks like it was found at the bottom of the canal.
I’ve only got one road bike that I use all year round, the Brompton gets used in all weathers and I’ve never used wax on the MTBs so that just leaves the TT bike (and I’m not really in the marginal gains ballpark).
I can’t be bothered re-waxing it after every ride, whereas adding a few extra drops of oil takes seconds so I think I’m done with it.
If anyone’s passing Worcester and wants a crockpot full of wax let me know.
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The blip box is the expensive bit of that set-up though, even more expensive than a rear derailleur.
Anyone know if di2 is more feasible?
I’m not 100% but I think the rear mech on a Di2 setup is the brains of the hardware.
That’s true on the new 12sp di2, but the older 11sp you could just wire up a front mech to the main junction box, and then find one of the older 2 button bar end shifters
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How the heck do I move the saddle forward on this blimmin Trinity? @leahnp - any ideas?
Do I need to take the rear bottle carrier off to access under the seat from the back and then jam something long and thin through that holey screw or whatever it is?
Can’t seem to see how to open up the clamp that grabs the rails.
Looks like the same as the clamp on my TT. Loosen that very flat head at the top of the clamp.
Might easier from the rear but can do it from the side.
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It looks to me that nut with the holes in needs to be slackened. Try a spanner or stick somthing in the holes
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If it’s like my old P3. (Adam take note). You will be able to move the saddle forward on the rails by slackened the clamp bolts in the usual way. However, if you want to move the carriage that the clamps sits on, you will have to remove saddle and clamp in order to gain access the the bolt that releases it.
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One of the reasons to use a saddle with a cutout on that era Cervelo!
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