How young is too young for a Molten Speedwax waxed chain? 
I’d just clean it with degreaser and give it a damn good scrub then apply wet lube liberally, and keep wiping and applying every few weeks. The easy option. Shame they’ve no covered bike stand.
OK people, talk to me.
I’ve got Fruity’s Saris turbo on loan. He had a 10sp cassette on there. Internet told me that wouldn’t work with my 11sp bike. So i took it off, and carefully put it into storage.
Tried to put my 11sp on there, that i took off the training wheels for my bike. All the cogs went everywhere. I thought they were normally stuck together? That was a pain.
Anyway, when i tried to put them on the turbo, it seems like they don’t fit. Like there are too many, plus these spacer things in between almost every cog. What’s the deal? I managed to bodge it a bit, but the cassette was all loose when i tried to pedal. Also not helped my somehow losing the little gismo that interfaces between the Shimano locking nut type thing and the wrench/lever bit. I heard it drop, but i cannot find it anywhere in the shed. At all. It’s a mystery. Tried tightening by hand. Didn’t work.
So what’s going wrong. Aside from needing to buy another tool thingy. Do i need to take the sticky outy - is it the hub, or part of the hub? - but off the turbo and swap it with the one from my bike wheel? Is there a difference in 10 and 11 sp sticky outy bits. What’s the deal with the spacers?
Man I hate stuff like this!!! I just wanted it to work.
ah, that’s a pain for you
I have never used 11 speed so am not sure about that, but IIRC there was a really thin black spacer ring between the cassette and the turbo.
From memory think that was a part to make the cassette fit securely. could that have come off with the 10 speed cassette perhaps?
Jyst a thought, may be wrong.
sorry it’s not plain sailing! my fault for having museum bikes
Yeah I don’t think he wants that on…
This looks like what you should have. Do you have component 2 installed? Looks like a thin washer/spacer.
Sticky out bits 
You’ll probably find there is a small spacer between the back of the carrier and the hub. You don’t need that.
Just spoke to a mate and that was his suggestion as well. I did just find it as i was looking at what i had in hand, so i’ll try without that. Cheers all
@wheezy that’s a cool diagram, thanks. That’ll help when putting it back together. Just ordered a new cassette lockring tool thing as well, seeing as my other one has vanished into thin air!!!
Doesnt help, but its a right of passage for DIY bike mechanics to learn that casettes arent stuck together. Great fun when you do it in the garage and all the spacers roll off in different directions.
I swore for hours yesterday as I had to fit a new folding door on the bathroom, and new handle and stuff. Really fiddly awkward job, which is a bit of a bodge anyway.
We’ve salvaged the folding door from the built in wardrobe, in the room that is now the office (as we’re ripping it out). Told my Mrs how much I despised diy.
Had exactly the same convo with her this afternoon about the bike.
Some people are just wired different. And fiddly mechanics/engineering/DIY stuff is just pure shades of hell for me!
I’m not familiar with 11 speed cassettes as I’m still on 10sp (as you’d expect, if not 7) but the spacers between the cogs aren’t always the same size so you can’t just put them in randomly if you’ve completely dropped the whole thing.
You should be able to google the correct spacing if that’s the case.
one thing I’ve learnt over the years is to put back cassettes in the same order as you took them apart (or have a clone to check against - one of the advantage of having 2 bikers in the family with same setups!)
With Shimano I just use the slider if its a new one. If I’m taking off an old one for cleaning and putting back, I just slide it off onto a long screwdriver.
But I raced Campag for over 30 yrs across tons of bikes. I can look at those blindfolded and know exactly how they fit.
One thing that did stump me though was not knowing I needed a specific tool to refit my 12sp SRAM mtb cassette. Luckily a mate had one.
Big cable ties are your friend here. Can leave it all really loose to clean in a bowl of degreaser, being able to get in all the nooks and crannies then hang it up and let it dry, all without the hassle of spilled gears and spacers everywhere.
yep, that’s what I do once they’re off but I’ve tried sliding them straight onto a zip tie and always ended up being a bit unco.
I keep my spare Campag cassettes on a slider but they can be right bitches to slide on in one block
You just need the knack 
Unfortunately, I don’t have a Campag equipped bike in the table at all now. For shame 
My mate Rob just bought a new Canyon Aeroad with DA 12 speed and all the best bits (who knows price - a lot)
He wanted to take the spacers out of the headset to drop the bars. Unfortunately the headset is held on with one 4mm allen key bolt that needs to be torqued to 9nm. He stripped the bolt using the torque wrench supplied by Canyon
The system Canyon use is that you cannot remove the allen key bolt from the headset locking mechanism, you need a whole new mechanisme. Rob ordered a mechanism, he then tried to fit it and after many hours called me.
He brought the bike round: To fit a new headset clamp, you need to remove the hydraulic cables… which are internally routed, so you need to cut one end. When I took out the front brake hose, I saw that it had a massive kink in it - basically when Rob removed the spacers the brake hose was too long… and internally routed, so when he pushed the headset down. it kinked, this kink is not visible as its all internally routed. It was not just a little kink, it was folded in 2 and internal structure has collapsed, it would have blown. Its the most fucking stupid and dangerous design I have ever seen.
Never, ever, ever, ever, ever buy a fully internally routed bike. Headsets are not designed for internal routing, you have to make too many compromises and create mechanically poor designs. If you want to adjust the height of your bars there needs to be somewhere for the excess hose length to go and at least in Canyon’s design, for the front brake, there is no space to accomodate extra hose.
Given my moniker I’m sure my view is fairly predictable, but I think a lot these advances (for want of a better word) are great when everything is perfect. The components are brand new, assembled perfectly by a skilled technician and scrupulously maintained by an equally skilled one.
They fall down if any of those things aren’t true, whereas an externally routed, rim brake bike can be maintained in reasonable working order by a semi literate gibbon (me) over many many years.
Apparently at 45kph an internally routed bike saves 2w over an externally routed bike. Fistly this is probably an over estimate used by marketing, secondly, who would notice 2w?
I am OK with cables routed in the frame, they aren’t that hard to deal with, I hate bars with internal routing, headsets with internal routing is plain stupid and makes the bike almost imposible to maintain unless you have a lot of knowledge and decent workshop.
I recently bought a brand new Airstream marathon frame. Unfortunately Airstream went bankrupt last year, so it was part of the bankrupcy clearance (Airstream owner was just up the road). The carbon frame was made in Austria. The Frame is internally routed… however, internally it has guides for all the cables, it is the easiest bike (internal or external) that I have ever routed. I guess the company went bankrupt because the frames were so well engineered
I think internal routing is probably more about aesthetics than aero dynamics. As say, whats 2W?
If you are at the absolute limit of everything else then marginal gains, for most of us, make no difference at all. Probably 0.5 second on an IM course
