It certainly needed some pressure to undo but I’ve got a really big old torque wrench with a handle that’s about 2 foot long so I guess that helped a lot. Glad I didn’t have to resort to more destructive methods of removal - although I did buy an angle grinder last week at Lidl for that kind of brute force job.
Just thinking, a new chain set was fitted about five years ago by a local bike shop so maybe they went through the real pain back then and I only had a few years of age on the one I removed the other day.
I decided to strip down my Planet X Exocet 2 as it’s finished for the year and haven’t really done any maintenance on it for ages and have endured several wet rides. The headset and crown race are basically piles of rust and need replacing. I think I’ve tracked down the right headset, but have no idea on what crown race I need, and can’t find anything helpful online. Any ideas how I’d find out?
I dug my Zipp 900 disc out to give my race set up an outing this weekend if it’s dry. One or both bearings are crunchy. So I’ve ordered a bearing puller and a beating press as I have neither (total: £43.45). I’ll probably break even for what my LBS would charge.
Now I need 2x 6802 bearings. Do I go steel or ceramic at £30 vs £50 for the two. Marginal gains?
I’ve started going over the Pandora’s Box that is my TT bike. Zwifting on it has not treated it well. Although taking the BB cover off, looks quite clean around the rear brake and SO glad I ran the mech cables through a liner to keep the crud off them (Trek SC). Rotor powder coated cranks don’t like sweat…
Oddly the NDS crank hasn’t really corroded at all. Going to spray paint this one. Although I now have a spare Ultegra chainset I could use; but it’s nowhere near as Gucci as my Rotor.
It was also probably sweat that caused the top mounting bolt to seize on my Canyon front caliper too (I did use a towel and have sheets of newspaper draped over the front wheel in an effort to stop seat dripping on the wheel.
New shoes… have a speedplay compatible sole - no interest to me.
So I assume speedplay use this nut… which is nice and loose and I want it out. Cant seem to get at it from inside tho
My old Boardman CX is on the trainer now. Finally decided it needed the drivechain cleaned. Checked chain wear and it’s fine. No surprise…there was so much hardened crap protecting it from maybe 4 years sat around during Covid, that white spirit was useless. I had to scrub it with a WIRE BRUSH
Re-checked with the Park Tool indicator after cleaning, and the chain appears to have lots of life left it it (one of those ruggedized KMC off-road ones). I had to scrub the rear mech cage too; obvs I just binned the jockey wheels. Cassette dismantled & soaked in spirit, and a tootbrush was enough to deal with that.
Not a big help if the debonding is sudden and catastrophic. I’d be concerned if I were a big guy doing 1000W sprints. Not an issue on my TT bike though… smooth IM 120W for 6+ hours
(I did use a towel and have sheets of newspaper draped over the front wheel in an effort to stop seat dripping on the wheel.
