I checked if I had a spare to offer, but I only have the non-tightening spacers, not the base adjustable one you need. Here’s mine:
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Yeah - Its a bit high - but Ive got no interest in hacking the fork length.
Also didnt have enough cable flex to drop some spacers above the stem. And as I frequent this thread - way outside my pay scale !
Ive already managed to order 2 (1 by mistake!)
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Once I had stack dialled in, I took it to the LBS to get the stem cut. No way I was attempting it!
I’ve cut down loads of steerer tubes, it is really easy.
When you have the bars at the right height, add an 0.5mm spacer under the stem
With a pencil, mark the top of the steerer tube, at the level it comes out of the stem
Remove fork
Using a piece of masking or electrical tape, wrap the tape round the steerer tube at the point that you marked it. Make sure the tape is applied straight
Clamp the steerer tube in a vice, with rubber clamps (or use some old inner tubes)
With a hack saw, carefully cut a grove exactly at the top of the tape (I tend to rotate the steerer tube round and cut a 1mm groove all the way round. If you follow the tape it will be perfectly square.
Once you have a groove, cut through the wall of the steerer tube
rotate steerer tube around 30 degrees and cut through - nice gentle strokes
Carry on rotatating until you have cut through the whole tube. Be careful towards the end that you support the cut section otherwise it will break off and leave some carbon strands
Use a fine piece of sand paper to rub down the cut edge
It is not hard, doesn’t take long and leaves a perfect result
Sometimes I cut the tube a tiny bit long and put an 0.5mm spacer above the stem in case I want to lift the stem in the future
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Other option I’ve seen used is whack on an old stem and cut against that/use as a guide
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That also works, If you do that definately use an old/junk stem as its really easy to scratch it or even cut into the surface
You don’t even need to do this part.
Just lop it off in place.
I’ve got a steerer tube cutter and my vice is just my legs holding the front wheel in place.
I hadnt paid much attention to the Shimmano crank recall as just assumed I didnt have one. Have just checked and mine is part of the recall.
What happens though if I take for an inspection and its fine, but in a year or two times its not fine any more. Is there a time limit on the recall?
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I don’t like getting shit down into the bearings. Carbon dust isn’t too bad, but aluminum kills the headset. I have occasionally done this, with a disc break bike with hose routed through the fork, just make sure that I have a good rag stopping swarf getting into places it shouldn’t be
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Don’t know, we’ve got 3 on different bikes, which we’re advised not to use until they have been checked (forget that). I will be going to LBS to see what they say
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Piece of pish with a cheap jig and a sharp new blade. Tape is a good idea as suggested. A nail file is good for any tidy up.
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You get to sue Shimano and the LBS.
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That’s a tool I’m likely to need once every 10-15 years; not worth the clutter 
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I cut more MTB bars with it than steerers so it has its uses. But yes it’s a niche tool 
I use a pipe cutter, quite cheap and accurate.
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Thoughts?
The rubber strap it come with doesn’t quite fit in the “cockpit” and points a bit upwards. I’ve remove the strap mount and used a cleat bolt to screw it on.
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Looks alright actually. How stiff is it though? Could imagine that bouncing all over the place when you’re riding.
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Feels stiff. Will find out I suppose.
Started removing the Veloce groupset, still thinking about replacing the tourney on my commuter.
Remembered how fucking frustratingly difficult doing anything is, which is why I stppped years of bike maintenance and bike building. Took a hammer to the intransigent shifter. Fuck it, I feel like years of stress have lifted 
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Works ok on aluminium. It makes a proper mess of carbon tubes (although I’ve only tried it on carbon fibre arrow shafts).
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