Nope, tried Soap and pumped up to 100psi.
Borrowing a set of contis to see if it’s just a bad rim/tyre combination
Nope, tried Soap and pumped up to 100psi.
Borrowing a set of contis to see if it’s just a bad rim/tyre combination
Quite annoying. New (first) balance bike for my daughter, and the rear wheel has come like this.
It doesn’t look too bad on the video, but with such a tiny rim, that amount of lateral movement is actually a lot. Have had to basically disengage the rear brake to allow the wheel to rotate. And of course they’re off until the new year so no way to contact them and no idea what they’ll want me to do and if we can take her out on it, or if they’ll want it “as new” and fully returned.
This was not a cheap one!
Probably a post for the rant thread in truth, as I’m not expecting them to suggest I do maintenence on this. Truing a wheel is not in my skillset
That would be an ideal bike for one of those GCN videos about comparing an old bike to a modern superbike - recon it would be less than 5% slower than a £12,000 bike
I have at the back of my mind seeing if I can do an IM distance in under 10 hours, buying all of the kit and payng entry fee for less than £1000. This bike woud be a great starting point
Not sure where to start, the handle bars higher than the saddle, or the one pedal with a top clip missing the strap and the other pedal being what looks like an SPD from an MTB
My bike won’t backpedal, it feels like chain is stuck against the cogs and cassette won’t spin. But the cassette moves freely by hand when the wheel is out the bike and the bike works fine with different wheel/cassette , so it’s nothing to do with the rear derailleur.
Does that mean it’s the free hub of the wheel?
Worked fine last ride, kept indoors, now suddenly something feels seized.
I’ve had that with an old wheel on my winter bike. The next stage is that the cassette won’t engage so you just spin with no drive. I ended up kicking my cassette (technical term) to get it to engage on a ride. I have changed one free hub but depending on the value of your wheel a new wheel might be the best solution in my experience. Some free hubs are easy to change but others can be bad/impossible and if you have to buy any tools to do the job (probably only once) plus the frustration it isn’t worth it. If you can find any instructions on how to do it for the wheel/free hub you have plus you can source the correct part then this might sway your decision. Also see what anyone else has to say on the matter, as this is just my experience.
This is the weird bit for me as there shouldn’t be any difference on or off the bike.
It might something as simple as the pawls in the free hub are sticking in one position (old oil/grease/dirt etc) so pulling it out giving it a clean and a drop of light oil (not grease) may be enough to get everything moving again. Some just pull out of the wheel once you have the cassette off so I’d look into that first.
I’d have guessed at freehub. Have you removed/stripped it? That would be next step to see what’s going on inside.
On my ride yesterday, I had a problem with cassette indexing that has left me a little perplexed.
I could change down a sprocket but not up. Have checked that the cable hadn’t snapped and it’s got tension.
It appears to be a problem with the shifter, any ideas?
Could be that chain has mated with that particular cassette. When you’re pedalling forwards, is it changing gear nicely?
Can you backpedal a bit and then it gets stuck or not at all?
Sounds like the cable inner might be corroded, meaning that there is too much friction for the spring in the mech to pull it to the higher gears. Might be able to fix by lubing the cable, may need a new cable.
Had a new cable in December!
Imagine the pawl inside the shifter has snapped. To go down a cog it releases tension, to go up it has to pull the cable back.
Does the shifter feel loose when pushing in? Do you have external cables? If so pull the cable for mech, if it shifts ok by manually pulling the cable then its likely the shifter is fubar.
That sounds about right - Off to the LBS then
Can the pawl be replaced or is it the whole shifter?
RD indexing has gone out, lost the lowest gear. Barrel adjuster seems to do nothing. PITA
Not sure, its pretty delicate and tightly packed internal components so I would doubt they are serviceable.
I’m a member, it’s a bit random and some people seem to take it seriously which is a bit odd.