Ah ok you may well be right - worth a shot though
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Sometimes you gdt 11sp hubs with a spacer to allow a 10sp but if the hub predates 11sp then yeah it just wont be big enough.
I had tonswap the hub on my Powertap as it was 10sp and I upgraded. Thankfully it was a fairly cheap and easy swap
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I made the switch from 10 to 11 spd at the same time as going to a compact chainset which kept things simple I guess.
I then sold a powertap wheel to someone using a 9 speed - that needed a special purchase of a big fat washer!
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Good, I was worried that we needed to adjust your attitude.
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If it’s an old 10sp hub then a standard 11sp cassette won’t fit. You’d need to mill -0.3mm off the back/inner face. A bloke on timetrialling forum used to sell these.
There are some workarounds though. The 11-34 hg800 11 speed MTB cassette will fit a 10sp hub. But a ‘00s road derailleur probably can’t handle a x34 cog without a hanger extender.
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Today’s bike faff in prep for Spring.
New chainring on. The old one wanted replacing a few thousand kms ago but they’re £130 each if you’re lucky.
Then I went to replace the bar tape and found this mess with the gear cable 
. So I’ve ordered new outers and cable.
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Doing a quick lube and check in the gravel bike, found a tiny amount of play in the BB.
It’s a SRAM DUB one, and I was thinking I can probably just adjust the preload a little bit.
Anyone else running one?
Grease.
Ffs, I just want a do it pretty much all grease.
Lithium, calcium, moly, teflon?
Does it have to be bike specific? Can I just pop down Screwfix for this?
A lot of you have probably discovered this guy but I’ve followed a few of his videos for disc brakes and quite like him, doesn’t drag it on either.
My rear brake on the Propel is rubbing, tried re-aligning it as I mentioned and it got worse so going to try and release the pistons in case they are sticking, the calliper is only about a year old though but sat in the garage all winter.
Wish me luck!
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Any tips for seized bolts?
Three out of four are stuck and binding
Also: Any tips for removing blue thread locker?
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Apply some anti seize (Plus gas etc) for a few days to give it a chance to soak in. If the hex heads are rounded you can hammer in a Torx bit to get a good grip on them.
The blue thread locker (are you talking about on the bolts? If so then a stiff brush or wire brush should do it.
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Will try that, but I don’t think there is any gap for it to get into.
Also, what is two way about this seat post? If I flip it round then there’s no way to level the seat. The components only slot together one way.
Had the same on my P5 and various people couldn’t get them out so they got drilled and the bars are essentially useless, unless you’re very flexible and can use the lower mount!
I sold it as F&F and got a new frame 
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That’s why you need a few days ideally so it can find its way down the threads. If there’s a way to get the liquid to pool around the bolt while you leave it even better. I’ve built up some blutak or similar to make a little pool in the past so it can sit in a little puddle for days.
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Maybe I should stop now…!
Maybe this is why I never flipped them in five years. I’m sure I thought about it before.
Could make it rideable at the weekends.
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There’s suggestions on YouTube but none worked for me, my sweat had seized them, I’d normally clean them over winter but didn’t use it in 2020 
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Going buy anti seize today.
If it fails, how about destroying the spacers (5q above) to get to the screw, and getting pliers on them?
I’ve got spares.
I guess if there’s any danger of damaging the bars (carbon?), or scratching them up, then hacksawing through the wedges and bolts might be an option. Then put the remainder of the bolts in a vice and twist the bars. It’ll be hard work to hacksaw through that lot though. But I’d hope anti seize would do the trick. Are you a salty sweater?
Some nice stainless or Ti replacement bolts to follow?
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Heat is your friend, softens the thread lock & all the dissimilar metals expand at different rates freeing them apart. Also a good wack on the face of the bolt helps. Add some deadaning to increase the effect.
Are the bars aluminium? The bolts are steel and they have probably welded together through galvnic corrosion.
Heat is an option but the alu on the bars is going to be pretty snd you risk warping it trying to get enough heat in.
You could try putting it in the freezer. They will shrink at different rates.
I had this battle with an old Audi. They had a famous pinch bolt which held two control arms on the the main suspension arm. The bolt was massive and the whole length welded itself to the arm. Was days of heating and soaking with plus gas.