MTB help

Thinking about a set of these for the Anthem. Looked at carbon but can’t justify it, looked at Hope but they seem so heavy. a mate has a set of these and is happy. Any thoughts?

I can vouch for Hunt Wheels, My pair is still straight and have never needed adjustment after two years of being battered at FOD and Ashton Court by a fat lad.

I have the slightly heavier Enduro pair though.

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I need a new cassette for my new wheels and have to get an XD compatible cassette (SRAM).

Watching GMBN about money saving tips and they were talking about Sunrace cassettes. They are cheaper but I can only see them at ‘

Anyone bought from them?

They’re normally fine, they are a large perfectly good spanish retailer., but of course they are now brexit hit, so who knows how it’s going to be now.

I’ve bought from them & all was fine.

Thanks both. My wheels won’t be here until back end of Feb but will have to check the taxes to make sure it’s worth it. IIRC, locally the SRAM cassette is approx £160

Have bought from Bikeinn in the past, as others have said they were just fine.

Also have had a Sunrace Cassette, I was a little disappointed when it turned up as they are not as well finished as the competition. But in reality it turned out to be fine; no issues with shifting and pretty durable as I recall.

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So I have my cassette (bought SRAM Eagle GX in the end), new pads, new tyres, new rotors and new chain. Just waiting for dem wheels.

However, I’ve never fitted tubeless before. My mate says a regular track pump is fine but he also doesn’t like dropper posts has a caravan, therefore can’t be trusted!

So I’m thinking either a canister like an Airshot or an all in one like the Topeak. i don’t fancy the Bontrager because you have to fill the chamber when using it as a regular pump. I have a regular track pump but it’s getting on a bit now.

I don’t want an air compressor and I don’t want to make a ghetto version because I have the engineering skills of Jeremy Clarkson.

Who has what?

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I had the canister airshot and it does works but the valve is a PITA as you have to fill the canister separately. The lifeline combo pump and compressor is awesome as you flick the valve and fill the chamber use it to inflate the tyre and if it needs more air all you do is flick the valve back to track pump and carry on pumping.

ooh just saw that one thanks. Half the price of the Topeak!

I have never managed to get them to go up with just a normal Track pump.

However if you have a CO2 inflator to hand it does the trick nicely, you need to be brutal with the valve on it and open it up to full whack immediately.

Thanks. I have two inflators but they’re both the ‘unscrew to release’ type. I did read that Co2 doesn’t play nice with sealant but nit sure if that’s true?

I think I’ll get the Topeak Joe Blow Booster. It’s a bit spendy, Wiggle has it for £140 but I see that Demon Tweaks has it for £114. I really like Demon Tweaks, I don’t know why they don’t crop up more as a good source online?

I hadnt heard that about Co2, but I dont doubt it.

Generally I get about 6 months or so before I replace sealant - I use the pink Muc off one, which I can recommend.

To be honest I am not a massive fan of tubeless; I debate with myself about going back to tubes everytime I have to mess with it.

I have a town bike that has tubes with a small amount of sealant put in, its much less faff.

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I’m only doing for mtb, don’t intend to do it for road. I have some Stans sealant and a syringe kit.

All new territory for me, as my mtb came with the tyres installed. they did start deflating after about 6/7 months, mainly the front one at first but I think both have completely dried now.

I’d heard the problems with CO2 degrading the sealant, not sure if it’s a myth :man_shrugging:

However I’ve used a CO2 to pop the tyre on, then deflated it & used a track pump to put proper good old British air in.

yep - also what I’ve done. I think CO2 leaks out quicker than air so the gurus suggest that once you’ve popped the tyre up, do as you do and get rid of it and replace with air - I remember reading the science behind this some time ago, but don’t recall this now.

simple answer - go with UST tubeless - no need to mess around with gunk then. I have them on my MTB and wouldn’t go back to latex solutions.

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I’ve just fitted my first pair of tubeless tyres on my new Hunt XC wheels, they were Vittoria Mazzas. I bought a Joe Blow Boost pump and Stans Sealant and some generic 100ml syringe kit and a core remover from Wiggle.

I watched about a gazillion YT clips, so was mentally prepared for something that in theory should be ok but in reality would be a nightmare but it actually went pretty fine.

The wheels came with valves but they weren’t fitted, the tape was though. I put a tiny slit on the tape with the end of a Stanley knife and pushed the valve through and before screwing up the retaining ‘thingy’ and put an O ring on, as that was a trick I saw on GMBN. Tightened hand tight and nipped up with pliers.

Then I mounted the tyres dry, one went fine and one was harder but went on the end. Then I brushed some soapy water on them, removed the cores, charged the chamber on the pump and ‘let her rip’, got that satisfying popping sound from both.

Then I tried to put the sealant in through the de-cored valve, the syringe had a clear tube and some adapters for putting sealant through a complete valve (I those off). I found it easier to suck the sealant up out of the bottle, rather than pour it into the syringe as some channels suggested. For 29x2.4 tyres, I put 120mm in the front and 140mm in the rear.

When i was inflating the front, I could already see small bubbles coming from the valve, where the O ring was. I inflated the rear, which seemed fine but by the time I’d done that, the front was almost completely down. I removed the O rings from both valves and really tightened the nuts ‘hard’ with some pliers. I inflated both to 40psi and did the ‘tubeless dance’.

Happy to report they are both still up this morning, so I let some air out.

So my lessons learned:

Definitely have clean wheels and tyres.

Use the soapy water trick.

Don’t use O rings if your valves don’t come with them.

Next time I will use the Muc Off sealant bottle that has the applicator built in, it’s less faff than a syringe.

Hunt Wheels are light AF and look great !


I went tubeless for a while. Now back to using inner tubes. Far easier and reliable.

On a mtb?

I think the trick with tubeless is prepare the everything and don’t cut corners. I redid my TT wheels last weekend so stripped off the tape cleaned the rims, new tape and they were up and running again in 20 mins. The MTB tyres were a lot easier to manhandle