Depends what you mean by average as there are a few options.
Average for the whole ride won’t really give much insight to what you’re currently putting out as it will take a long time to move once you’ve been riding for a while. You could be burning matches and not aware.
3s, 10s (or similar) average will give you your current output (instant power isn’t much use as too variable)
Lap average can be good depending how often you take laps.
I’d have 2 screens set up, one with current figures (or short averages) and another with the whole ride and flick between them.
1 Like
Anyone with faveros had a battery drain at all??
Charged them a few weeks ago, had a power warning on the garmin the other day - tho kinda ignored it knowing I’d recently charged.
Left pedal dead (which I assume does the transmission) - right one 80% power still./
Only thing I can think is that it became detached during charge unless there’s any similar incidents.
I have had the same once or twice, which has always been fine once I charge it again, so assumed I had knocked the cable during the original charge. Need to get into the habit of checking the battery level when removing the charger.
1 Like
Yeah thought the same. Be good practice rather than just assuming.
And I won’t ignore the warning again.
Didn’t know where else to put this, so i’ll pop it in here. Hoping some of the clever Mafffs people will see this.
Was just looking at the data from my ride on Monday. TP tells me i hit a new 10 min and 20 min power PB during the ride, incidentally it was the first 20 mins of the ride as we rode straight up Hay Tor from the car! So not a particularly nice way to start, with legs that hadn’t had time to warm up (also stiff from my ru the previous day). This leads me to believe that i could probably have set highr records had this hill come a bit later in the ride, which is encouraging as i’ve not been doing any focussed bike work since the Cotswolds.
Anyway, the 20 min effort includes 1 min of barely any power (65 watts) rolling super slow at a set of temporary traffic lights (on the one little flat section of the climb) where i also proceeded to drop my bottle, so i had to roll back to pick that up. But basically on my 20 min power graph, i’ve got 1 min, so 5%, at low watts. Clearly this is going to have an impact on my AP record.
If i wanted to get an idea of the actual AP would’ve been, how do i calculate the zero out? Or is this what the NP effectively does, so i could use that figure? It doesn’t mean anything, i’m just curious.
edit - actually i could use this more accurate 20 min figure to set my FTP on Garmin, TP and then Zwift when i get back on (though indoor and outdoor power ranges to seem to vary … i mean just ask @mw22 
[sorry dude, couldn’t resist]).
Ta
1 Like
For all those excuses, go 5% more than the number, maybe a little more even, if NP has any value than in this situation it must work as the higher value yes.
Don’t use it for zwift, FTP’s are specific to the activity you’re doing, using an FTP from one to set targets or measure stress from another isn’t helpful, particularly using the FTP from a sustained outdoor climb for indoor turbo work.
I wouldn’t be too overjoyed about it being high despite lack of bike work, lots of people can put out lots more watts on 20 minute climbs, although hay tor’s flat bit pushes people to go to easy (head up to Porlock toll road, or for 10 minutes do the one from the river up to Mammhead which 'cos it gets progressively harder you get that forcing help to keep going)
Also of course, as it was first 20 minutes, on a boiling hot day, that’s the highest chance that the power meters temperature compensation failed and it simply over read 
1 Like
Wow. Way to crush a man’s dreams Jim.
2 Likes
Right now, you can do 15% more than that number on Porlock compared to Hay Tor, I’ll say that for sure, in the middle of your training it would’ve been even more.
Karma 
2 Likes
Touche my friend!
Here’s a question for those more informed (JibberJim et.al).
I have Faverra Uno on my road bike but would like to use on gravel bike. However, there seems to be two main issues:
- I’ve read (anecdotally) that PMs don’t do so well on MTB/gravel set ups due to quick changes in RPM and surges in power over rougher terrain.
- The Assioma is a Look pedal setup and it really needs to be Shimano for off road (there’s times when I’m definitely carrying the bike in Clwydians so I need to be able to walk)
Im not sure if there’s any answer to Q2 but I’d appreciate any input for Q1
1 Like
-
No experience, but heard during Olympics that mountain bike riders use a lot of power so seems likely that is reliable, but that’s pure assumption.
-
Treat yourself to a new set of Assioma so have one look and one shimano for each bike.
Will see you on the purchases thread soon enough.
2 Likes
Any feedback on Garmin Vector 3s?
I’ve recommended others to Assioma since I got them, but looking now to buy again and the garmins are cheapest I can find (in Aus), nearly £100 cheaper for dual sided.
ETA: Should have known dcrain would have me covered:
Ah ok. Does Assioma produce a Shimano compatible PM. I should Google it really 
Yes they do look or shimano versions, although I think the Shimano versions are new this year.
1 Like
I think with the Shimano ones you need to have an existing pair of pedals and replace the spindles?
Unless they’ve released a package now.
2 Likes
Interesting, as I’m going to need to buy power again next year for the tt bike. Unfortunately it has fsa cranks which are incompatible with 4iiii which is what I have on the Canyon and was going to get for this one. I don’t think Stages will work either.
I had started to read back on the thread. A few people, seem to recall @stenard being one, using a spider (?) based one rather than crank arm. Can’t remember the name.
Shame really as the crank arm single sided was easily sub 250. Don’t really want to spend more than that of I can help it.
Guess I could save up for the assioma single sided. Though the benefit of it being pedal based is lost, as it would be staying on the single bike.
Any thoughts from the tt massive?
I can do that
Can the vector 3 be converted to different pedal versions, or do you have to pick one?
Think Stenard might have had a Power2Max for some reason? They are usually very reliable and you can change the battery yourself, tend to work better where the crank can have the spider removed, so not Shimano ones.
How about cyclescheme for some assioma’s?