I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t tempted. But I’d be looking probably Jan/Feb next year.
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Not just compromising the run, but it must be hard to put the power out in that position. Aero is good, but it might be better for the race to sacrifice some aero for more power and more run speed.
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Depending on budget and how fancy you are I’d be keeping an eye on (or search alerts) on eBay and or maybe FB market place for Planet X Stealths or Exocets. I picked up a decent condition Stealth for £400. For a bike thats getting such little use compared to my gravel bike I couldn’t justify a lot.
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Yes a mate has one (can’t remember which now). Pretty sure @Poet is rocking very well on his px as well.
Thanks for the input chaps.
Pretty much confirms what I was thinking. Though I had massively underestimated the impact it would have on my run. Maybe my bricks weren’t hard enough to simulate it properly, giving me a false sense of security.
Nice to know I’ve down what I can with the resources available. And plenty has been learned on the way. Like @jeffb says, racing again less than 5 years later will be a major boon. 
Looks like I need to start collecting brownie points! We’re off our for a child free lunch now, that’s a start. 
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My PX Exocet II was £400, no wheels.
Picked up the 82/101 for £225.
PowerTap P1S £340 (new)
Elite CX £23 (new)
Elite Buta £17
AeroBox £35 (new)
Bento Box £15
That’s £1,055 for a race ready rig 
Obviously, I’ve replaced some consumables, but you could easily get a proper TT bike for under £1k in dribs and drabs.
Cannondale Slice
Boardman TT
Could be others ???
Not being funny, but @FatPom ‘s TT bike looks like a bargain to me
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I did similar, bought a 2nd hand Giant for £250, I used a few bits I had but mainly picked a group of compatible Shimano parts and bought them as they cam up on ebay, with the Wiggle shop being a good place. Last night an Ultegra 11spd RD went for £20 incl. postage.
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Looky here
Wowsers. Good deal.
Any knowledge on a ‘aero skin top’ - castelli aero race - vs a well fitting tri suit (sleeveless) for aero on a bike.
I seem to remember somewhere there might be a big difference?
I’ve got my crappy wheels on, so need all the help I can get (although did get an emergency aero helmet purchase 
)
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I’m sure that your clothing is second only to your position when it comes to CdA. It’s far more important than frame aerodynamics and aero wheels as your body frontal area makes up 90 odd percent of the total area.
I think…
I’m racing on Sunday.
I’m not going to screw around with my position, I might wear my one piece…
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I’m wearing a Castelli Aero Race and 2XU shorts for Outlaw.
My Huub suit has flappy arms and legs now.
Just from wearing and washing.
It’s done 500km and is crap.
The worst thing I’ve bought for the price.
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So. Should I be removing my latex inners now and putting them aside for a race. I may end up doing something in sept, just a local sprint or oly or a sportive. Or will they degrade or something off the bike and require new ones anyway?
And pros and cons? I assume they’re less puncture resistant than normal ones? Though my normal ones at the mo are just cheap £3 halfords inners. Again, is there any benefit to spending a couple of quid more on inners?
More puncture resistant to most things that puncture, but obviously it depends on exactly what causes your punctures. Puncturing when you install is also more likely with latex, so you’re adding risk there.
The main con is having to pump your tyres up all the time…
There’s absolutely no point spending money on butyl inners.
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I’m going to ruin it for myself now, but I’m yet to have a puncture on this bike in the 14 months I’ve owned it. 
The latex is already on the bike. Basically I cba to take them off and put the others on. But I will do so if it’s going to highly increase the likelihood of punctures. If it’s minor, I’ll probs just leave them until they puncture. Don’t mind pumping tyres once a week or whatever.
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No it decreases the chance of all those little things with low force poking through as it’s more flexible, so flints working there way in etc. I would certainly leave them if you’re happy to pump.
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Cool, thanks.
Kronus TT helmets are down to £35 today (but possibly only today). Carnac Kronus Time Trial Helmet | Planet X
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Sold mine for £30 on eBay recently 
ETA: I think they’re a great helmet, just upgraded to an Aerohead
EATA (edited again to add)…
Sorted Her out for Outlaw…
Spare tyre in the bento box
All other spares in the 3D printed aero box…
…which is fastened to the bottle cage via bolt (which took AGES to manhandle into place)
I’ve then secured it to the frame with industrial Velcro to prevent it rattling and also taped the lid shut to stop more rattling, too.
Gonna go with 2 x concentrated Maurten in the down tube and one up front (that’s 240g CHO)
Then a caffeine High5 bottle at hour three on the bike (40g CHO) add to that a couple of Maurten gels at hour 4 and 5, with water - takes me to 330g CHO.
No solids 
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FYI for those interested in ‘budget’.
Managed 2.38 for a half today. (90.16km).
- 402m climbing (so quite flat)
- 34.3km/h
- 181W AP. 190W NP.
- I’m approx 70kg.
Was on a 9 year old Slice, with 9 year old Mavic Cosmic wheels (i.e. shit), an aero singlet, no arms.only new aero concession was a new a Giro vanquish helmet
Gained some benefit - because you do - from sitting on the legal draft distance.
Overall I think that’s pretty good bang for the watts.
Edit: What I am really trying to say is that I’m coming around to the idea that if you get the basics right you are most of the way there and the things that are touted around as making a big difference are far more marginal than might be expected
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