TRO is probably the person here, but a few of us have put a hydration bladder down the front or back of the skinsuit, with the straw coming out. Fairly aero as well, although it can slosh a bit when it’s full.
Then water at the aid stations.
As in down your tri-suit, like a more aero version of a mountain biker wearing a camelback?
Yes, pretty much. Just took the bladder out of the camelback and shoved it down the front, also meant I could use the energy drink I wanted rather than on course. Can make it a bit stronger and grab water bottles.
Fairly sure @TROSaracen first did it on the National 100.
I’ve seen a few use it on longer TT’s
I used that advice for a warm 50 TT. Filled it with ice cubes to keep me cool too. Hard to do with a more fitted skinsuit though.
@Chriswim - I’ve had a go with just about everything.
Had a zip tied bottle cage between the arms from 2010-2012, but now have a bottle that can be refilled on the go…,or so they say 
They really cannot. It goes everywhere and you lose time.
So…I’d go with a standard bottle cage, maybe with a mount on top of it from the Garmin. Depends if you want to splash cash, or just zip tie your own bottle cage (which depends on how close your bars are - I’m guessing yours are quite wide due to your shoulder/chest width?)
Downtube - don’t think yours has a mount there?
Seat tube - A standard bottle mount is quite aero there on the Shiv (if yours is the model I’m thinking?)
Does yours have the rear “sail” fairing?
“Shiv” (terrible pun!) your spares in that 
You’ve now got;
Fuselage filled with fluid
One standard
One standard seat tube
Sorted. BTS are awful.
I’ve always had issues when I’ve used them. 
No to the rear sail, too old a model. It does have a cage on the downtube though as well as the Profile Design 2x cage BTS so 3x cages plus looking to put one between arms, just deciding between standard cage and a fancier ‘system’
The Fuelsalage is a bit shiv* . Fine for sprints/Olympic although realistically you’re only getting about 500ml at best in there, after spending a while fiddling with it inserting it trying to get it as open as possible. And it’s the refilling issue is why I’m not going to use for long course and instead just bottles and cover that with a bento box for food - even if you can refill it (if it hasn’t crinkled closed while empty) it would take so long of being sat upright, unsafe, and losing fluid everywhere it’s not worth it.
Keen to hear if others have any other experience with the BTA systems.
As for BTS, I lost two bottles in one race, and one bottle last race, but always on bumpy descents at 60+ kph.
Still experimenting but this is my current approach for Oly and Half (don’t do Full). Cost 50p so very much in the spirit of this thread 
. Not suggesting you want to go this cheapskate but sipping out a straw has been a revelation. I found it really hard to drink regularly enough when it involved taking a bottle out. With a straw it’s almost the opposite. Don’t know about refilling (I’d have to get off and tip the bike up )
nb: if anyone is copying, it has zip ties front and back when it’s on properly, it’s hard against the arm rests, and it sits neatly on the bars anyway - no way it can fall through.
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I really like the old Shiv bladder and had really good success with it on my 3 IM’s. The bladder holds about 700ml, I have a BTA bottle & I would exchange the BTA bottle then refill the bladder on the move, only a few seconds a squirt, probably in 2 goes.
@Matt_Perks That’s worthy of the DIY thread too 
The one time I tried a poky up straw it nearly poked my eye out, so I’m firmly in the frame bottle camp.
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What does this Do @doka?
Open it up for easier refilling?
It’s to install it so you can use its full capacity as its a bit of a bugger tending to crease up in the frame. Put the tool in the bladder then feed them both in. Tool gives it rigidity while having the form to follow the bend.
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If anyone is interested, I have a Kask Bambino Pro sat here doing nothing. Not sure what it’s worth, it has two visors and a bag.
£240 new according to Google
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Can someone suggest a front light suitable to be mounted on the aerobars. Alternatively, I’ve currently got a Zipp TT garmin mount, is there an easy way to stick a light underneath that?
Sounds like a TT mate’s rate of approx £140 then 
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I need to do this for Saturday
If all fails I’m going to electrical tape a light on
Fairly certain this is the wrong threat for this question but couldn’t see a different one it would fit. I’m thinking of making the switch to clipless pedals for the summer. As a relative newb, do I need anything above the RS500? The RS7000 are on sale at Wiggle for £105 and the R8000 have a bigger discount at £118, but do I really need to spend more than £50?
I won’t be using them for any sprints I do this year, more just for my casual rides, as won’t be racing over a long enough distance to make the change of shoes worth while. And I can’t afford a turbo so they aren’t for indoor training use. If the RS500 are junk that fall apart then obviously I’ll pay more, but I’m not going to notice or get any benefit at my level with things like small differences in weight.
(And if there’s a proper thread this would be better in let me know and I’ll repost!)
The pedals do wear out eventually, but that’s a lot of use, and the RS500 are steel now too - they didn’t use to be, which meant they did wear faster. No idea if the bearings and axles are still the same, but there’s just so few watts there to be lost it’s almost completely irrelevant.
I think the RS500 may have a slightly different range of spring adjustment, but unless you’re the hulk and want super tight springs and doing low cadence out of saddle sprinting all the time then it’s really not going to matter - as a newbie to clipless you probably want the lighter default anyway and there’s absolutely no reason a triathlete should ever be pulling out anyway, you just don’t pedal like that…
ie, save the money and spent it on tyres/tubes.
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