Yep that’s the one. As i slide the bars up, my front end rotates downwards and inwards in response.
Though the pads are designed for a flat position, so they’re not comfortable at all. I tried 2 x intervals on the turbo yesterday with bars flat, and one back to the upwards position and i definitely prefer that. May have to either mod my pads (high possibility of me c0cking that up) or keep an eye on eBay for some cup style pads like a few guys on here have been buying lately (or a new pair of tri bars if a bargain pops up).
Yes i’ve thought about this for the bike as a whole when i first got it (thought i’d be a M but Canyon insisted i was an S - think Jorgan and Stenard has similar reservations, but Canyon seemed to know their stuff when sizing) and considered getting a longer stem, but got used to the geometry after a while (in road bike mode).
I do find myself doing the opposite of what you say i.e. pushing my elbows to the very top of the pads to stretch out. So that may well be part of the issue. But again, i don’t want to go throwing tonnes of money at this one race. I’d like to hope that in the future i can sneak a second hand TT bike into the shed at some point. That would be next year at the earliest though - Mrs GB has her sights on the bathroom now as the only untouched room in the house! .
You should be able to by a cheapo stem (e.g. not aero or carbon) which is longer and possibly has more angle (to bring you lower) pretty cheaply. And if you were to get it second hand you could probably flog it on after you’ve used it without losing much. A quick check on eBay shows stems can be had for around £20.
I guess one thing you need to be slightly weary of, is using really long stems/extending your reach can bring your balance really far forward over the front wheel, which can make handling very twitchy.
I don’t think that’s the opposite, I think it’s the same thing.
You want the pads to be further away put can’t go beyond them so the arched back is pulling your whole upper body back to where they are.
The best way I 've seen a TT position described is that it’s exactly the same as your road bike position but the whole thing is rotated forward around the bottom bracket so saddle, bars etc. are in the same position relative to each other but further forward.
Yep agree on that last paragraph. Won’t be so bad on race day oin the Cotswolds, but will be awful for training at home. I’m not a super ‘tinkery’ guy. So i think i just need to make a call on what’s good enough to get me through this season. In reality, i’m not going to be challenging the race or anything, i just want a decent ride that i can be happy with, that has the least detriment to my run, which i’m hoping will be in a decent place come July.
I’d love a 2.30 bike split. But am not feeling at all confident that i can hold 36kph for that long!!
Well after ruining my position, I pootled along to get another set of eyes on my fit.
I also have a really arched back and what seems like a high front end, tho when I try and change that - things get even worse.
What was REALLY annoying tho, the fitter hops on MY bike during the fit. Looked absolutely perfect. Back was pancake flat, elbows at 90 -was ready to push him off.
Back in early 2018, I bought two Vittoria latex tubes with 80mm valves. My plan was to fit them in the 404s for TT and IM but I never got around to it. They’ve never been out of the boxes.
Oohh nice! Yeah that’s the kind of bargain i’ll be hoping for.
I looked back over my last time at Cotswolds in 2015 and i averaged 32kph. That was on a crappy bike, with no focussed bike training or thoughts on aero/fit etc, but, i was very run fit. So i’d certainly like to improve on that, but i think 36 may be a bit too much. But it’ll be what it’ll be in the end. I’ll train and race to power, and the speed will determine itself. Could be awful weather.
But i would expect that the difference in speed would result in a much smaller delta in reality e.g. a really hot day may bring it down from a 2.35 to a 2.45, which is about 2kph. I shouldn’t need to make any adjustments to my target power output to be on the road for 10 mins longer, but i could easily overcook it if i was to chase the higher speed output when my body wasn’t able to back it up with the power required vs energy expended.
I thought that was common knowledge? I nearly always ride that position if TTing on a road bike. Been doing that for years and years, lots of riders in the pro peloton used to do that.
If I want a break from it, I will grab the bars either side of the stem and be very narrow. I used to do some invisible aero bars but I find the road conditions not always conducive for that.
The trick is to make sure your arms are flat, it’s easy to straighten your elbows a bit. Also, always used be easier to achieve if you had Shimano, rather than Campag (I always had Campag) as the reach made it a bit easier.
It’s always been faster. Drops (actually every calls them drops when they really mean ‘hooks’) are more for control than aero. The latter is easier to maintain f you aren’t used to but the former is the way to go. (maybe not if you are on 46cm bars )
Yeah, similar. Getting the forearms horizontal was the key. It’s just a lot more effort to still get the torso down and into an aero position, versus being in the drops (which exposes lots of arm). I rarely use it, simply because aero gains on the road bike are generally not something I need to worry about
Some concerning reviews for the Halos on Amazon. I’ve considered the Styx previously but couldn’t swallow the ££. Tempting though from the bling perspective.
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…I’m gonna be happy if I can hold 32 
I could be in for a rude awakening here.
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