So. There’s a chain and a cassette on. Took me like an hour in total! 
But something doesn’t seem quite right. But not sure what. How tf do you know what 40nm of torque is on the shimano locking nut thing without a torque gizmo?
My hub has also lost the clicky sound when freewheeling. I did clean up some grime from inside it and put some grease in. Hope I didn’t fuck it up. But it did look like this. Looks like it’s got chunks out of it. Probably from my immense power. Any ideas?
Mine looks like that, its just where the cogs bite into the ribs.
40nm is tight without need any significant force
Did anything fall out when you removed it? The clicks come from the pawls on the left, are they covered in grease now?
I think so, yeah. So my bad. I’ll take it for a ride in the next few days see if it’s OK.
I think there’s just something that’s a tiny bit out somewhere.
Any tips on slotting those cogs on? Took me ages spinning them around trying to get them on. I’m also hit careful enough at really studying stuff before removing and replacing. Took me ages to realise there was the old spacer right at the bottom that I’d not noticed and couldn’t get the thing to tighten. Once I spotted and removed that. Bingo.
Little things like that. I put the chain on and off 3 times by not picking up exactly how it went on.
When I’m bit under time pressure, and it’s sunny, I quite enjoy it. Even though I frustrate myself. But I do not trust myself in the slightest.
The thing I have found with the cogs is if you look at them there are loads similar size but one that is larger. Look for the larger one and line that up.
Other top tip is when you are removing one put a zip tie through it to keep it together in order.
Or quite a bit of force if you’re a pretend dairy farmer who just moves spreadsheets around and goes running.
Well yeah I mean I use my little finger.
as Iwaters says, regarding the cogs, there’s one wider spline than the rest so find that and match it with the same wider slot in the cog, same for each cog. Regarding 40Nm I’ve taken them off new wheels which has needed quite a bit of force so have always put them back with a similar amount of force and never had any problems. We’ve got 9, 10 and 11 speed bikes so the spacers are a right pain when switching things around, knowing which one to use, I’m always googling it (should write it down). I did change a free hub last year (getting it off can be a right pain) and it was worth it for the cost. The pawls were sticking so it wouldn’t engage and mine was sealed so not repairable.
I always line up on the smallest one.
Decent effort, @gingerbongo.
You joke, but that’s far better than I could achieve.
I’ve not ridden it yet!
https://forum.tritalk.co.uk/t/boast-about-your-recent-purchases-here/1045/11771?u=jgav
Last question…maybe…
Is the Slime I’ve got ok to use (unopened bottle) or should I get some Stan’s No Tubes?
Is this car slime or bike slime? I wonder if there’s a difference. If it’s just to get those old tyres going then I’d give it a go. Worst that can happen is that it doesn’t work and you have to strip off the tyres and hose them off and start again. If you’re forking out for new tyres I’d recommend Stans personally.
Bike Slime
Thinking if I plan to run the tyres for longer then should go straight to Stans. But maybe I just need to work out if the tyres will work at all.
Should be fine, but in my experience with mountain bike tubeless it doesn’t have a massive life - you will need to renew it in 5 months.
Other stuff lasts longer.
It’s not a well know brand, but I am a fan of caffelattex.
I realise this is an older post but re greasing the pawls, I always use something light, like sewing machine oil.
Why TF do you have light seeing machine oil?!
It may surprise you, but I own one, single tube of white, lithium grease from Halfords. This was bought last year and the first ever time I have bought any sort of grease (other than cheap burgers on a barbie! ).
A mechanic I am not.
It was a typo, I meant to say ‘like sewing machine oil’. ( I think WD40 do a droplet type bottle).
I have many things in my garage, most still have the labels on. 
Stripped off the crank and checked bearings. As I suspected based on the crank not spinning too nicely, one of the BB bearings is done.
BB90 standard being a Trek which looks like it’s a 25x37x7 bearing with a plastic dust cover to reduce the spindle to 24mm for Shimano. Hambini doesn’t recommend Enduro for these ones as they have a looser tolerance so ordered a pair of NSK bearings.
Already did this once recently, so trust my skills.
Could have gone for this too 
https://www.wiggle.com/p/ceramicspeed-bb90-trek-bottom-bracket-bearings-only
Another vote for this stuff.
Installed new BB bearings. Rather than Trek I got some NSK ones for the same price. Tighter tolerance, cranks are now nice and smooth where they were grinding and sticking before. Used some loctite 641 with 7648 activator so hope they don’t have to come out for a long long time.
Then tweaked and setup the front brake which had a bit of rub and checked the pad wear. Had to watched a GCN video on disc brakes so I could understand how they work and the different ways you can adjust them. Looks like more tools if I ever want to bleed them…
Next is a bit of indexing next whilst it’s on the stand. The shifting up for the FD is stiff and I guess it’s a cable. CBA to sort that as I do very few FD shifts normall and it currently works.
