Yeah, I just took it all apart again and the first couple of threads do look a bit grizzled up. Was wondering if I needed to replace it - whatever it is called.
So do you mean almost cutting the thread back in i.e. removing the chunks of plastic where it’s sort of crushed/flattened out of shape?
Ta. 
Yup, I think this is what is being recommended. You may also be able to run a wee screwdriver along the thread to re-shape if it hasn’t been mangled too much.
Yes as Doonhamer says, file, scrape or cut away bits of the thread that are not where they are supposed to be.
The key is getting it aligned 100% when fitting.
get an old toothbrush in there and see if you clean the threads out before resorting to using something sharp in the threads as you could just as easily damage them beyond use if you’re not very careful
I’ve had a clean and the thread was literally stripping off with just a cloth! So looks like I’ll need a new one.
Cheers all
the valves on my inner tubes - after pumping the tyre up - this has happened too many times now - when I unscrew the pump attachment, it takes the top of the valve with it, under the pressure pushing it out.
It’s aggravating. Is it my pump attachment or just a shoddy brand of tube.
Is there anything I can do to prevent this, and are the tubes redeemable or useless after
It’s your pump. Is it a Silca? They’re shit for this reason. Only solution is to glue in valve cores with a dab of superglue or buy tubes without removable cores. Or use a pump that doesn’t screw on.
Yeah, I remember that happening with my first hand pump to fix a flat out on the road. Bloody annoying. Don’t think I really ever used that handheld pump again.
I just have track pumps at home that don’t screw on, or use press-on CO2 when out on the road
… just a standard 20 odd quid hand pump I take with me -
Thanks I’ll glue the other tube valve. Could have saved myself a few quid knowing that. Chucked a few out! 
Front and back derailleurs adjusted 
Limiters on front seem to do nothing… 
Will test ride Saturday for club ride Sunday. What could go wrong?
FD is probably starting to seize up then I’d say. I’ve had this happen to me. I obviously ignored it until the whole thing seized up and wouldn’t move from big to little chainring and vice versa.
Finally got my rear wheel fixed after I shifted my derailleur into it. First LBS messed me around. Incompetent. On their recommendation I sent it to Zipp who said it’s fine just take it to a competent wheel builder. Another LBS stepped up. Anyway now fixed. Rotor, cassette and tyre back on. Sealant in. Wheel back on bike and rear derailleur adjusted, with meticulous focus on limit screws (a task that was beyond the shop that sold me the bike… they were screwed out all the way). Also installed new Swiss Stop yellow pads, gold valves for that touch ‘o chav look, and bled the front brake which was squishy after I routed the hose thru the bars. I think that’s the bike functional once again… finally! Busy now till Tues so can’t shake it down 
Patio is a mess. It was flooded last winter. I want to replace it.
.
What;s the toilet roll holder about and the massive syringe?
I suspect the bog roll is for clearing crap up and the big syringe used for bleeding the hydraulic brakes
Bingo! I don’t have any shop towel so I grabbed a bog roll. The syringes are for pushing the DOT fluid through the brakes to drive out the air bubbles.
Sorry, me again.
As you may have guessed from my post yesterday, I’m talking chains.
So the quicklink broke open, and half of it disappeared into the ether. So that’s gone. The breaking action also bent one other link, so that’s useless as well.
I have a few spare links from when I put the new chain on the Canyon a couple of weeks ago.
So, can I fix the old chain by adding in 2 new ‘normal’ links? Should I buy a quick link separately, and then replace 1 normal links and the new quicklink? Or will I forever have a weak spot and it’s new chain time?
Ta.
If it was me I’d remove the damaged link, fit a new quicklink and very carefully see if I can still get all gears without anything jamming. If that works job done.
If not you can add a couple of links but then you’ll need to run two quicklinks either side of the new ones.
Is this the bike you intend to use for Wales or just a training bike? If Wales I think I’d be putting a new chain on, you don’t want any doubts or potential weak spots on race day.
It’s for Wales, yeah.
Was thinking maybe I can bodge it up a bit for a couple of weeks on the turbo and the odd outdoor ride… But I’m also currently browsing pre waxed chains 
For me, it’s new chain time I think, I appreciate that this will cost money, but if it goes wrong again it will no doubt do it at the worst possible time.
Always been a fan of KMC chains - Never broken one and have re-used the quick links multiple times.
The emperor’s new clothes.
