Patching tubes, partially inflated…
What the…
Talk me down.
Foolishly I acquired a “spare wheelset” without considering the cassette. Idea was carbon 50s at the weekend, aluminium with 32 tyres for commuting. I have 12 speed 105 di2.
So I have no cassette on the commuting wheels.
Option 1 Switch cassettes over every Friday evening when I get home, switch back every Sunday night.
Option 2 Never use the commuter wheelset
Option 3 I have an old 105 11 speed cassette on the turbo. Might be 10
Option 4 Save for a new 105 12, not really an option at the moment, like maybe Christmas.
It’s been a few years but I think I have all the kit for cassette changes
Put the cassette on the cheap wheel & just use that all the time until you have a second cassette for your expensive wheels?
Or… keep it on the expensive wheel and just use that all the time, until you have a second cassette for your cheap wheel?
Changing the cassette every week sounds like a ballache
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Duh, thanks. Never even crossed my mind!
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My bikes have a different speed cassette to MrsB and I have to swap cassettes on the turbo 3-4 times a week in winter. Years of practice and I could qualify for F1 pit crew now.
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If that were the case, I’d have personally only ever ridden in erg mode. Indeed, it’s what I have done at points when sticking my old 10sp road bike on the 11sp turbo. Definitely couldn’t be bothered faffing with the cassettes regularly when training in erg negates the issue. Clearly a problem if you want to ride in sim mode on the likes of zwift. But the faff would certainly be enough to make me not care enough!
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Same here, I have a campag bike on the turbos 105.
If I put the 10 or 11 speed cassette into the di2 bike will burst into flames?
I can commute without changing gear…but would like to know if it’s going to break the di2.
A company called Airbike seem to be selling 12 speed cassettes for £35 on eBay. You might be able to cover a fair bit of that from selling an old 11 speed one?
The 12 speed rear derailleur has different indexing, so running 11 speed cassette on it will have horrible noisy shifting. Even if you don’t change gear you’ll have to decide which of the 11 cogs makes the least noise?
I think I’d go with the cassette swapping option, it really doesn’t take long with the right tools. Can sometimes be difficult taking a cassette off for the first time in a very long time, but if you’re doing the same cassette regularly then shouldn’t be bad, especially as you can choose how tight to do it… just don’t be too gentle, I have had a cassette come loose mid ride 
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Found one for 44.99 on tredz, maybe a biryhday present next month, but I think switching the new cassette to the commuter wheels is the way forward then. Use the carbons when I can be bothered to switch cassettes.
Okay, deep breath. Disk brakes…
My front wheel is no longer spinning freely. Barely spins a whole rotation.
It’s through axle so I don’t see how I could be putting it on wrong.
I can/did ride it like that for an hour on Saturday.
The brake lever feels really tight.
Are you pulling the levers to engage the brake when you are tightening the axle ?
Sometimes it’s just that.
Is that something I should do?
Or shouldn’t?
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Something I do, it’s a good starting point.
Disc might be warped or the caliper could have moved which are more painful.
So slot the wheel in, pull the brake lever, tighten the axle, release the lever…?
Yes.
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Hasn’t changed anything unfortunately.
Wheel spun a bit better after an hours riding, but still.
Can the disk brake be adjusted itself?
The disk can’t really be adjusted unless for some reason it has come loose which is unlikely. You need to remove the wheel to do it and on Shimano I think it uses the same tool as a rear cassette to tighten.
You can use a similar process to tweak the caliper by loosening the bolts and re-tightening them with the levers pulled, probably worth a look on YouTube for some tutorials as it will make more sense.
Is this your new bike? I’m surprised they need tweaking so soon but the gap is so small it’s a common problem with disc brakes.
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Loosen the caliper bolts.
Spin the wheel.
Yank the brake.
Repeat.
Next time, keep that brake lever held down.
Tight the caliper bolts.
Magic.
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Might be worth pushing the pistons back in?
I had a really old mountain bike sat unused for ages where the brake was locked on solidly, so much so it was an effort to remove the wheel. Pushed the pistons back in and it’s been fine since.
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