Hitting the limiter under load or maybe the mech is a bit seized? I’ve had similar in the past.
Ha thanks, I was hoping there might be a non-mechanical based solution.
And “under load” @jeffb ?! How dare you! What are you suggesting I’ve been eating too much cake? I am but a wisp of a man
Haha, no the opposite, the load from you laying down the power and possibly flexing the chainrings
Well that was VERY weird.
Just put both new GP5000s onto my wheels in well under ten mins. Not a spot of bother. Bit of a squeeze and they were on.
I must’ve done something wrong. Bought the wrong ones. Or put them on upside down or something. Too easy. Waaay too easy.
Last time I played with these I was 18 secs away from burning my shed down in a furious rage. Only my fingers were too battered to operate the lighter.
Dark tan looks pretty sweet though.
Good work, which ones did you get, vanilla GP5000’s, TR, STR…?
Folding vs beaded?
Folding tyres are a piece of piss every time.
Are you sure they are on the right way around
I would go with the upside down
Front wheel isn’t so much of an issue.
Real wheel however
Often wondered how directional tyres really are. Can imagine you have to be pretty much on the limit to notice.
I guess () it’s that they’re more efficient at channeling water through the tyre and out the back rather than aqua planing over the top?
Total guess.
Won’t ever have the speed to truly aquaplane
OK, I’ll bite … why would I buy a beeded tyre?
Thought this sounded sensible and then saw a pair will cost me £90.
I’ve got two bikes if something goes wrong and some old part worn tyres ( that I’ve binned all the 23s
).
Because you hate your fingers
I should quit poncing about with this bike and go for a ride. A few new bolts installed whilst sitting in the sun. Frame’s still covered in Fred Whitton gunk.
Apart from brake calliper assembly bolts, bleed port and hose bolt that’s everything in gold Ti that I can think of. . And maybe the thru axles.
And I see SRAM have updated their AXS. Great stuff this wireless shifting if you can accept the slight lag.
I’m toying with getting rid of my TT bike and just using my road bike with clip-ons for the occasional tri I’m expecting to do in the next few years. Biggest concern is that my ‘fast’ wheels for my road bike are tubulars and I worry about punctures during races. I have no experience with gluing etc. so is a sealant plus CO2 a potential quick fix for a race situation?
I’ve a bunch of ancient Zipp tub wheels that I really should dump on eBay as a job lot. I was perpetually worried about punctures in races and always carried a spare tub. 6 Ironmans and 30+ other tris/TTs and never punctuated though so
I doubt sealant is very effective for high pressure narrow tubs. I was running 19mm tubs at 120 psi! I think a pre-stretched spare tub taped to the seat is the best option.
My tubs are now retired and I’m probably going to stick the disc on the wall as a fun memento of races past
PS: want to buy some spare tubs? Or a pair of Zipp 808 tub wheels?