I have found this technique to be one of those mechanical urban myths. Only way to align disk brakes in my experience is to do it by eye, aided by a sheet of white paper behind the caliper on ground so you can spot the gap.
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So move the caliper by hand to see gaps either side then tighten?
I might give that a go.
Lever the pads apart if there’s not enough space?
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I think it was the correct way for some systems like the old Avid Juicys. They had domed washers to allow the caliper to settle in the correct place while you tightened them with the brake lever squeezed. I guess it was then just assumed you could adjust all calipers this way, which you can’t.
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These are a godsend
Yup zipp hubs and bearings are shocking
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Yes, just trial and error and eyeballing the gap. Watch your fingers… I lost a fingernail nail to a disk through carelessness. You can push the pads, or the pistons, apart with a plastic tyre lever or a proper piston tool, if needed.
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Train tickets work well as shims.
You’re close!
Doing everything right, just loosen them off a bit more, so the caliper actually wiggles around, then use the train tickets, tighten it up to eye straightness, then do the brake squeeze and final tighten.
That works for me.
Combo 
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WIN
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Finally managed to get my single-speed bike up and running again after a few years gathering dust. Just in time for the end of winter (though in this part of the world that’s debatable), but riding it reminds me how much fun the simple act of cycling can be, without worrying about charging batteries, bleeding brakes etc. As long as you ignore the fact you only have the correct gear about 5% of the time, that is
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Nice. Is it a fixie or can you freewheel?
Freewheel, I need be able to have a rest at some point! I’ve just done my flat lunchtime loop and even that has 250m of elevation
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How do you know which spare brake pads are the right ones for your disc brakes?
Ie these ones that have been raised free range and without the use of pesticides.
Nearly 40 years of riding bikes and I’ve never owned a bike stand.
Up at 6am changing bearings.
After removing the bottom bracket, freehub and rear wheel bearings, I can see why the bike may have felt sticky 
HINT: It was never the brakes 
I might be able to do 30kmh without putting out 250W now 
I was also reasonably clever and bought spare bearings to save me searching for the size again in 8-13 weeks time … when they inevitably fail again.
The headset? I’ve given up with that. Who needs steering?
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Feedback Sports Sport Mechanic Work Stand
Though I like the Pro-series red ones.
Why are your bearings failing so often? Are you riding through rivers and cycling in utter filth? I’m a fair weather fanny so I swap a BB every 3 years max.
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Headset - honestly don’t know. My winter bikes that are all the same ACB tapered style have never had an issue. I use a mudguard, too.
Wheel - It’s Zipp. They’re crap. End of. Only suitable for dry weather. Even though they say 303 are suitable for gravel, I don’t think they are.
Bottom Bracket - Pressfit nonsense. English 24mm threaded is where it’s at.
So just poor design for the most part, really.
It’s only this bike.
TT and road bike are Press fit BBs and they’ve never had an issue. Both of them have Zipp wheels, too. No issue with dry mileage on those.
Winter bike is 24mm English threaded BB and I don’t think has been changed in six years. No new headset either. Wheels are just £100 OEM nonsense, which I replace every couple of years from eBay “nearly new” stock. So never had those bearings fail either.
Rim brake and they go first.
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Very very true!!!
Although the first image looks like the New Forest to me
The answer is seeming quite bloody obvious to me. And I’m shit at bike maintenance.
Buy
A
New
Bike
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I think I just replaced them like for like with Shimano brand.
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