I don’t know what they are as they came on the bike - the brakes themselves are 105. The ones I linked a Shimano “Deore” whatever that means.
Also thinking about getting the right length cranks, £140 seems a lot to lose a few mm.
Deore are usually the mountain bike range for Shimano but I think all the pads are the same.
These are the same as what are on my Ultegra brakes, I think they others will work though, just not Shimano branded and have a different design.
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What’s the best way to half-ass chain removal without a chain link specific set of pliers and a KML quick link removal type chain?
I think I have every other tool out there, except this and the thing for setting a crown race.
KMC? You can do 'em by hand just push up/push down (sort of twist so the link is vertical and slide towards each other, the twist is to stop the other movement., never used a tool at all, I use them specifically 'cos of this.
But not sure if KML is some other link that’s different.
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Use a a nail punch and a block of wood.
Probably best to do it with the bit of the chain furthest from the frame / wheels to avoid any damage.
Does this work?
Edit… probably not if you don’t have a quick release chain link 
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That looks cool I’ll give that a go later as no luck so far
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What he said 
And KMC links work on Shimano and SRAM 10-11sp too (or have IME)
Got a tool so never tried it but this looks pretty easy to do.
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Been giving the Enigma a bit of a clean, took a bit to get the pedals off and I hardly tighten them, needed to wedge them and use some leg strength!
Not sure the chain and even cassette are worth salvaging for winter, our winters must make the likes of Shimano, SRAM & Campy a lot of money in replacement parts!
I should put my mudguards on sooner if I ride in the winter this year.
This is off my SKS Raceblades - I’m missing two of them.
They are M4 10mm (3 mm Allen key) socket cap head bolts but the head looks shallow to me. Depth is 2 mm and although a lot of bolts online don’t have this dimension listed, those that do seem to specify 4 mm. In the end, it won’t matter. It’ll just stick out a bit. But if anyone knows where I can get the right ones for a sensible price, that’d be great. Fair go on eBay / Google is drawing a blank.
Here they are on SKS website Set strut connection RACEBLADE | Mudguards | Products
You could use an m4 dome head instead they’re readily available in Amazon.
Thanks, that might be a good option. Are they the same diameter head? It goes into a recess in the strut.
Can be different but if you measure the recess on your bike you can check the dome one fits.
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Ride on this rear tyre?
- yes
- no
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voters
It’s a Conti GP5000 clincher at the end of it’s life. I’m riding this evening and just noticed a 4mm hole which the inner tube is bulging through. Think I might have hit a sharp stone.
I’m going get a new set, but just for tonight’s 2h ride, would you risk slipping some cardboard or plastic in between the inner tube and the tyre? Or should I take the much heavier and slower tyre of my commuter bike with attendant PITA of changing it over again later to ride to work tomorrow morning?
edit I think unless folk come along and say “it’ll be reet” I’m going to go with the heavy commuter tyre
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I say no, save it for the Cotswold. It will be super lightweight with all that missing rubber.
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Have I posted this before…
Ride on this?
Riding to the start of Grand Fondo champs in 2019 in Poznan I ran over some glass.
Didnt have a new tyre and just put a new tube in. Didnt really check the tyre as no time before the start.
I rode nearly 100 miles on it, glad I didnt know it was like that… I remember spotting a dark patch on the tyre in the last 10 miles. Also glad I didnt inflate it much. It was the front tyre as well, could have been nasty.
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