That gap between the bolts is wider than all my light mounts that attach to the stem bolts.
Edit.
So there seems to be a 36mm and 42mm standard looking at other mounts. Cr@p.
That gap between the bolts is wider than all my light mounts that attach to the stem bolts.
Edit.
So there seems to be a 36mm and 42mm standard looking at other mounts. Cr@p.
That’s them, pretty much next to each other on the stem last night.
Might need to check the depth of the bolt holes as well as my Propel needs an extender for a front Garmin mount.
You didn’t get an extender with the bike or lights did you?
I’ve got loads of bolt extenders (assume the metal cylinders) and numerous bolt lengths.
Ordered a 42mm mount now ![]()
nice cable management ![]()
Are they internally routed to the rear derailleur and rear brakes? From that picture it almost looks as if they are heading off forwards first?
Yeah they feed into the head tube…
I only had small list of jobs…lost the will to even test ride it with how badly everything has gone.
looks great though ![]()
Yep feels much lighter than the old one, which I wasn’t expecting.
Also wasn’t expecting just how different the 32mm tyres it came with v 32mm conti 4 seasons I’ve put on are. Actual width is crazy different.
Still need to ruin it with mudguards… But needs must.
Switched the Tufo Thunderos on my gravel bike for Panaracer GravelKings 45c in limited edition yellow. They’re certainly bright. I imagine some folks won’t like them but they make me smile. Purple ones were available last year which would have been even better.
Minor grumble - the little holes in normal, plastic jockey wheels.
For the sake of 5 g, it makes cleaning them a lot harder.
New bike was ordered 18th July and delivered the following week.
By mid August I’d given up with the old mudguards and ordered new ones.
Since then I’ve brought no end of clips, bolts, adapters , mounts……
Today I have finally got the second guard fitted ![]()
Front and rear has 2 different mounting systems. Neither compatible with 99% of available guards. They no longer sell a set for the bike.
How it’s not ended up at the shop, or in the bin I do not know. If it rattles on Monday I’m going postal when I get to work.
Can someone explain ghost shifting to me. I’ve read about it and watched some videos…. but the logic fails me when the rest of the gearing is indexed correctly and shifts perfectly fine - right until it suddenly does it on its own.
Again new bike - so understand could have some cable stretch. But if I tighten the cable; is that not going to effect the current indexing? Does it need tightening then re-indexing?
I would just re-index the gears, as in doing that I would take up any new slack in the cable by pulling it through and reset and barrel adjusters anyway.
Shouldn’t happen on a new bike but I’ve had mechs that have pretty much seized in the past or the cables on the casing
Re-index how… as they are already indexed? Stupid question I know… humour me lol
I take it we are talking mechanical shifting? I’ve never used electronic shifting so no idea, but if mechanical;
Get the chain onto the smallest sprocket
Make sure your shifter is clicked all the way for the smallest sprocket.
Loosen the pinch bolt on the rear mech that grips the cable.
Wind in fully any barrel adjusters which are either on the rear mech, or you may have an inline one somewhere along the cable routing.
Pull the cable tight with pliers, making sure it is properly seated in all its various guides, on the frame.
tighten up the pinch bolt.
Turn the crank while shifting one gear on your shifter. It probably won’t shift so this is where you wind out the barrel adjusters which until shifting occurs.
That should be it.
The winding out of the barrel adjusters will add more tension to the cable, which will take up any other slack which the cable has after you’ve pulled it tight manually.
Yep - the work bike. Nothing fancy.
THANKYOU!!!