No problem
Just sort of remember that the shifter is pulling the chain uphill any slack in the cable means you are pulling out the slack in the cable but not applying the force to the rear mech to do the shifting, that’s why when you index your gears you always start ‘at the bottom of the hill’ so to speak
And of course if this still doesn’t make sense, refer to the big moustachioed guy on the Park Tools website.
How tight?
First attempt once I started turning crank I jumped up the sprocket twice without changing gears 
So repeated and pulled tighter - this time no auto shift up, but it did go first time. Then needed about a full turn 3 cogs up to move up. Seems to be shifting ok….. but anyway I can test the ghost shifting is “resolved”? Other than riding normally and adding load?
You shouldn’t need to pull really hard. Just feel some tension in the wire and then tighten the pinch bolt.
Well quick test and seems to be ok.
If that works tomorrow you’ve given me the simplest gear instructions in nearly 20 years 
Appreciate it 
Those are remarkably clear instructions 
Damn bikes. Dark art.
edit to say, the transcript of the Calvin moustache Park Tools vid @wheezy mentions is the fettling guide I trust most & sometimes even seems to work.
Bike fit question. Knee discomfort, top of pedal stroke.
Put it here because I think it is a beginner question I sorted out ten years ago, but haven’t sorted on my new (18 month old) bike.
No problems on my 8yo tri bike. Feels very comfortable pedal stroke in any position/effort.
I’ve adjusted the saddle up and down once or twice, but that top of stroke always feels bad, more like and ache than a pain but it does crop up in my running sometimes as a shooting pain.
Saddle height originally set by shop, then adjusted to my old/known road fit, then tweaked.
I hate to focus on crank length but must mention that I’ve had 165s for years, these are 172.5s.
The saddle should be a touch higher, right? Or am I going mad.
I don’t want to think about paying for 165s but it’s been on my mind for about a year. I’ve got three sets of Campag 165s but my roadie is 105 di2 12. And even if they were compatible the bottom bracket change would be a ball ache.
Yes, I think it might need to come up a little bit
Headset has gone on my gravel bike. Again.
The pain of uncabling everything. And new bar tape.
FFS.
Utterly crap.
At least my new Shimano bottom bracket is fairing better. I’ve got nearly a year out of that now 