No problem
Just sort of remember that the shifter is pulling the chain uphill any slack in the cable means you are pulling out the slack in the cable but not applying the force to the rear mech to do the shifting, that’s why when you index your gears you always start ‘at the bottom of the hill’ so to speak
And of course if this still doesn’t make sense, refer to the big moustachioed guy on the Park Tools website.
How tight?
First attempt once I started turning crank I jumped up the sprocket twice without changing gears 
So repeated and pulled tighter - this time no auto shift up, but it did go first time. Then needed about a full turn 3 cogs up to move up. Seems to be shifting ok….. but anyway I can test the ghost shifting is “resolved”? Other than riding normally and adding load?
You shouldn’t need to pull really hard. Just feel some tension in the wire and then tighten the pinch bolt.
Well quick test and seems to be ok.
If that works tomorrow you’ve given me the simplest gear instructions in nearly 20 years 
Appreciate it 
Those are remarkably clear instructions 
Damn bikes. Dark art.
edit to say, the transcript of the Calvin moustache Park Tools vid @wheezy mentions is the fettling guide I trust most & sometimes even seems to work.
Bike fit question. Knee discomfort, top of pedal stroke.
Put it here because I think it is a beginner question I sorted out ten years ago, but haven’t sorted on my new (18 month old) bike.
No problems on my 8yo tri bike. Feels very comfortable pedal stroke in any position/effort.
I’ve adjusted the saddle up and down once or twice, but that top of stroke always feels bad, more like and ache than a pain but it does crop up in my running sometimes as a shooting pain.
Saddle height originally set by shop, then adjusted to my old/known road fit, then tweaked.
I hate to focus on crank length but must mention that I’ve had 165s for years, these are 172.5s.
The saddle should be a touch higher, right? Or am I going mad.
I don’t want to think about paying for 165s but it’s been on my mind for about a year. I’ve got three sets of Campag 165s but my roadie is 105 di2 12. And even if they were compatible the bottom bracket change would be a ball ache.
Yes, I think it might need to come up a little bit
Headset has gone on my gravel bike. Again.
The pain of uncabling everything. And new bar tape.
FFS.
Utterly crap.
At least my new Shimano bottom bracket is fairing better. I’ve got nearly a year out of that now 
Probably more for the boast thread but sorted the front brake on the winter bike earlier as it was rubbing badly with the wheels I’ve put on it, also put the mudguard on, rear was already sorted.
Watch the rant thread a few weeks when they’re squealing and the mudguard fell off mid ride 
This didn’t age well 
3 of 4 bolts on the rear mudguard came off today 
the mechanic has been disciplined and on a final warning.
The new mech hangers arrived today, maybe one for the purchases or even the I love thread after coming in 24 hours the day before Christmas!
Anyway, the mech cable was frayed as it didn’t have a cap on it, so I decided to replace the entire cable, it was a bit fiddly but easier that it wasn’t internally routed!
Mech back on which didn’t really need any alignment, the gears seemed to index fine but I’ll see under load. Then found a chain that was on over summer which I’ve put back on.
I’d given it a bit of a clean yesterday so hopefully all ready to go out on if the weather is decent. The bike club have got a Boxing Day ride but not sure I’ll be up and there by 9am 
Nooooooooo!!!
Has he conceded defeat to AI? Is there a robot that does it all a million times better?
Enjoy the downtime, Pal.
Think my new TT bike is being delivered on Monday.
Trying to work out if I should risk going tubeless, of stick with inner tubes that I know and trust.
It’s likely to get ridden once or twice per week at most, and probably not at all between October and April.
So I’m thinking that tubeless may be a faff and a problem because doesn’t the goo need replacing periodically?
Am I best just sticking with inner tubes?
I’ll be sticking with latex tubes for my new summer bike.
Tubeless for winter & gravel.
I’ve never changed the sealant in my MTB in about 9 years, no idea if it still works though
I think if you rotate the wheels during winter it would stop it from pooling and congealing in the tyres though.
I do prefer old fashioned tyres and tubes as well so normally stick to them.
How long it lasts depends on the sealant, and the tyres - how airtight they are - and the temperature. No experience with road tubeless but based on my MTB/gravel tyres, I’d guess you might be okay with setting them up at the start of the season, just topping up mid-season, then taking them off and cleaning them out at the end of the season. I’d be suprised if you’ve got any sealant left after a year, never mind nine. 
I ended up sticking inner tubes in my gravel bike wheels - I just could not get the tubeless to reseal even with new tape /values etc . cleaned up the tyre stuck in inner tubes - done. As I only use it for bike rides and multi days trips - makes it easier for me to deal with .
I’d say give tubeless a go. When it works it is superior to tubes. When it doesn’t work it’s a source of huge frustration. I run tubeless on my newer road, gravel and MTBs (no one runs tubes on MTBs nowadays, it’s not a debate).
If you’re running pressures >70psi I’d not bother though. Tubeless is suitable for more modern pressures and tyre widths.
For gravel it is a no brainier, unless you’re riding the tamest of terrain. Tubeless eliminates pinch flats. Coupled with tyre inserts you have a great set up.
All systems can fail if you gash the tyre. I get bored of people moaning that huge holes didn’t seal. You still need tyre boots, patches and a spare inner tube as a back-up even with tubeless. TPU tubes have made this easy as they’re tiny.
I like Stans sealant (not the race version), plus a Stans syringe. Refresh at end of year when you service your bike for its winter slumber.
Main issue with tubeless tyres is they’re tight as f#€k to get on when new. Oh and occasionally getting the tyres to seat is a challenge without a flash pump or air compressor, just with a normal track pump. Worth a shot though, it being 2026 and all?
A CO2 pump is best for getting the tyres to seat properly first time.
Just make sure there’s no sealant in there first as the co2 and cold can damage some sealants.
