Chainring and cassette choices on TT bike

But your P3X looks awesome!

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The dream machine!

:drooling_face:

Holy shit, that’s a weapon! How do you find the o/s jockeys, do they make a difference?

Do you now many other expats in Switzerland, I know that sounds like a dumb question but I have two Aussie mates over there that both ride, and I wondered how big/small the scene is?

Who knows, marginal gains maybe, but it looks good and makes me feel fast. I am riding really fast this year, but that has more to do with training I think. Very happy with Disc Wheel, and the jockey wheels are icing on the cake

I am a member of the largest international bike club in the Zurich area, several Aussies ride with us, so if they are in Zurich, Lucerne area then probably yes. Geneva has a lot of clubs, I know a few people around that area, but not too many, same for Bern and Basel. Cycling is pretty popular out here, so scene is pretty big, but generally centred around Zuirch, Bern, Basel and Geneva

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I’ll drop you a PM

I’m still searching for a reasonably priced 52 on eBay, unfortunately Shimano made the 7000/8000 chainrings incompatible with the 6800 cranks. I’m finding I’m too far down the cassette with the 53 whilst on the flats. Already have a compact crank I can swap in for anything too hilly.

What’s your range for that?
It’s the one issue I have with the new shimano cranks … blending the crank arms into the rings/spider really does limit you with what you can pick up. It’s a lot easier being able to use any standard “flat” rings. Not to mention the problems the newer ones create for power meters.

A single 52 ring from the UK retailers is around £100. I was hoping I could find one for in the £50-60 range so that I can sell my rings for around the same price, they’re not that common. I don’t know about the standard flat rings, which brands are compatible etc.

Edit - the R7000 chainset is in Wiggle for £103 for the 172.5mm crank arms, I’d prefer the 170mm but its OOO

Problem solved, I made an offer for a 52 ring on ebay which they accepted. A steal at just £16.50. The inner rings are relatively cheap to find, so will hunt around for the best one.

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Bargain!

Well done.

Hmm - it came and looked reasonable, fitted it today with the new 36 inner. When rolling or gently increasing power it was ok, the second I put any sort of power increase down the chain hugely slipped and nearly came off. Happened a few times, so I got off to check I’d installed correctly. Looked right to me.

Does this just mean it’s too worn or is it just chain rings interface and needs time to bed in?

Hold a good ring up against it to see if the tooth spacing is still the same. They’re pretty far gone by the time they start looking hooked.

When the chain was in the sprockets there were small amounts of light coming through at the front of the gap.

Sounds like it could be worn but not enough to be visible in isolation.
I had this when I changed the chain on my Brompton. Worked fine with old chain and teeth didn’t look hooked but as soon as I put new chain on jumped like mad.
Try holding the back wheel with your hand to create some resistance and turn the pedals slowly, you’ll probably see the chain climbing the sprocket until it jumps as each successive link gets more out of alignment.

One of mine started doing this …!

It was quite strange, the sram red rear block was virtually brand new but really worn on just one sprocket the 23 I think…

It must have been stuck in one gear on a previous bike, the rest were perfect.

Have you used a chain wear tool on it?

Sounds like the ring is kaput. If it didn’t do it before and the only thing you’ve changed is the ring - it has to be the ring right?!

The chain and the old ring can wear at similar rates such that they still work, but leave that old chain with a new ring and you’re stuffed.

My commute bike which used to get the old crap chains from my road bikes had that problem when I put on new rings.

Thoughts?