Can’t remember if I’ve said about this before, but I use this: https://apps.garmin.com/en-US/apps/da25bc8d-6f8c-4732-bd74-72f860d232ec
I have it showing 3s power, but you can also get a feel for what you’ve been doing for a longer period of time from the general trends on the background graph. This is my main power field for both training and racing
just downloaded this - cheers
He does a HR one too, I have tried to find something similar for cadence. I had a screen set up with Power, HR, Cadence and Elevation all in a row which is fun to watch on a general ride.
Right tried my first comparison… set the faveros up against my turbo on a mostly erg zwift workout. Comparing the averages for the 2 raw files and delighted that the difference was less than 1watt.
However, looking a bit closer and the pedals seem to spike alot higher than the turbo…
Both look pretty accurate, the question is what is accurate, when you’re only creating power when you push down (ignore when people talk about pulling up) so it’s not continuous so it all depends on how you measure, the turbo can’t see the differences as much as the pedals due to what it’s got to measure - the changes in speed of a fly wheel possibly, so it’s simply smoother than the pedals.
Absent anywhere else to put it, I’ve been able to do another comparison of my TT bike Power2max to another smart trainer, this time the Saris H3. As with my other trainers, the P2M reads slightly under, which seems to align with what most people say about the classic and Type S iterations (Type S is on my TT, Classic on my road bike).
They’re from the 3 races this evening.
Worth noting I havent actually done a calibration spindown on the H3 since getting it, so will do that next, then run another comparison to see if any difference. Ultimately, I don’t really care. I try and train to my P2M as that’s what I’ll race with on raceday. But if I ever switch power meters I feel it’s worth being aware of any deviation in reporting of numbers to other devices.
How did you get the comparison table?
Zwift power. But I think you can do it for any two comparable datasets, not just a zwift race.
There’s a lot more full information available too. As an example: https://zwiftpower.com/analysis.php?set_id=72283
I get a bit giddy looking at mine (tho still annoyed I picked the wrong turbo for the chart and cant seem to change it)
Nice. I do need to do the H3 spindown really, to ensure that’s accurately calibrated since I had it delivered
Found that despite the H3 being stamped with a September 2020 packing mark on the box, the firmware was quite out of date. Updated that first and did another test before calibrating. Mismatch seems even bigger!
Calibration next to see what that does to the gap
Reassuring though that both seem accurate to themselves, ie consistent gap. Could easily just call it 4.5 or 5% if that stayed consistent on multiple tests. Potentially a trend to convergence at higher powers but might just be random.
My Favero Uno had been giving random readings for a month or so - I’ve had them for 13mths or so - but it has always been sorted by a cal or zero-offset. That was until earlier in the week when it died completely 
Through the app I put a query in & they emailed me asking me to take a few pictures of the pedal & carry out a few zero-offsets through the app. When using the app apparently Favero can check the data, it’s very Big Brother.
Long story short, apparently they’re going to send me a new power spindle which is easy enough to replace. The pain in the arse is that because “since you live outside Europe, we will need to ask you to pay the shipping costs of the spare”…twatting Brexit 
Anyway, if you’ve not had today’s email there is a Firmware Update.
I was looking at buying pair last weekend.
They come up cheapest on the Favero site.
Presumably pretax!
Been fairly impressed with them so far. Less impressed with my lack of power though 
What did the Leave campaign say about taxes back in the day? Was it all about how they’d barter a deal with no tarrifs? 
Yeah I know someone made that mistake. It’s cheaper to buy from the uk. The taxes push the price right up.
I’ve been pleased with mine, I know several people who have had them longer & worked them harder. I would say I’ve been unlucky but they’ve been good enough to replace the broken part when my warranty has - just - run out. I’ve now just got to sit back, wait for it & wait for the bill.
Warranty replacements should be tax and duty exempt
New to this thread. Have used Powertap wheels since 2007 and they’ve been brilliant.
My winter bike is now disc brakes so I only have a need for one. So, if anyone wants a very lightly used powertap wheel for c£250, give me a shout.
Will otherwise be going on Ebay when I get round to it, or I might sell with my old Trek 5500 frame 
