Put a screw in it and a bit more sealant!
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The Challenge Almanzos I have are so tight, I’m not sure anything short of a HP compressor would have seated them. Even stretching them out with butyl tubes, and they are not quite sitting straight yet i.e. fully seated.
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I’ve got a flash charger track pump which works really well for seating most tubeless. It’s a good compromise before going up to a shop compressor.
E.g.
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Get in plugged like I did my car tyre today, quick simple and cost effective.
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Did you get home?
As others have said “worms” or such like would have sorted you out on the day, now you’ll probably need to repair the hole.
Don’t use a normal puncture repair kit, you’ll need something like this.
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No that I have just spat my dinner everywhere due to laughing at the Jizzing comment, I can confirm that what you need is a Stans Dart Kit. You also need psycological help
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Nice to see you have woken up from hyperspace.
Hope the crew are okay… watch out there are aliens and anti gravity tits.
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120 quid 
would a 12v car compressor not cut the mustard? I guess it doesn’t have the dump function?
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Yeah, probably shouldn’t have tried to ride it home it was really squiiffy near the end.
I’ve got some worms to try tomorrow morning but need to get some refill fluid.
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Why hasn’t someone come up with Spaff Sealant or Tyre Jizz?
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Cock jizz surely?
You shove a cock in (worm plug etc) and a bit of jizz sealant?
Hang on, Ive got another get rich scheme. To be a share holder send my your jxxx nevermind. Forget it.
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You need a big dump of air. I definitely didn’t pay that much personally.
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Inner tubes.
My cycling pals all dribble-on forever about tubeless problems and their tricks for overcoming them. Balls to all that
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Guy at Manchester Marathon should have tried that before starting the race.
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Quite.
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There’s two fucking punctures.
Plugging the one I knew about was a fucking nightmare, no faith in it those shitty worms are so sticky they don’t come off the sodding prong so I had to paste it in like stupid putty.
And I can’t see the second - only hear it. So need more time otherwise box hill tomorrow will be off.
Might switch to summer wheels but that takes time with switching the discs as well. FML.
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Do you not have rotors on both?
Just get a cheap OEM set for winter. Loads of them on eBay 
The worms - all technique. Watch some vids on YouTube, you need to press them all the way in. They then stick in the tyre as you pull them out.
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Yes actually I confused with casette changing, and hoping to get a second casette on c2w this year. And this problem is front wheel
The second puncture is somehow on a spoke nipple)!). So in a way I’m glad it’s not my madness/incompetence trying to deal with this - I’ve never had air escape from the spokes before. These are Giant “tubeless system” PR2s so does this mean some kind of tape or is the wheel fucked?
I’ve swapped wheels and deployed the DairyLea Dunker protocol to align the brake pads
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Made the conversion over to tubeless 3m ago with the new bike. First puncture (I know about) yesterday with sealant spraying all over me just as so wonderfully described by JoeX. Typically I’d lent my saddle bag to someone that morning for Lakesman, so had nothing with me, so started riding for home in case of slow flat, but it’s held fine.
Has forced me to get round to understanding tubeless better. Have ordered some strips, and may get a dynaplug if they ever come back in stock.
Seems like 3 months is a ok time to topup anyway. To check how much is left presumably I can just put a coffee stirrer down the valve as a dipstick? And how high should that be?
Then to topup, how crucial is it to take tyre off and remove old stuff, especially if that was a different brand? Vs pouring new through the valve?
Trying to avoid the faff of getting the tyre back on if tubeless are truly more difficult than clinchers
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