Bike Cleaning

Morning all

I was also intrigued by this and literally opened a can of worms trying to get to the bottom of lubes, cleaning, drive train efficiency etc - I did a ton of research to try and find which method was best - originally back when Friction Facts was independent (they’re owned by Ceramic Speed now, or at least Jason Smith now works for them) and then onto Adam Kerrin at Zero Friction in Australia - again, an independent testers. He told me things off the record that literally made my jaw drop - I work in the music industry and I hear a lot of b*llocks all the time but the things he told me were amazing…!

Anyway - I did manage to get to the point of finding out that TT riders in the U.K. have been pretty much bang on about wax all these years - further more, there’s a misapprehension that waxing chains is a faff and difficult to do - it really isn’t - it’s far easier (And cheaper) than cleaning chains (especially using one of those ‘roll through baths’) and then using drip lubes, having to re-clean, the lube picking you dust and crap off the road and essentially wearing the chain out and losing you watts in the process (chain longevity and efficiency are, after all, the same thing…)

I started looking into all this about 3 years ago and more recently made a couple of videos about it - there’s supposed to be a third part which I’ll get around to but parts 1 and 2 are here:

There are some really good comments on the videos too, more often than not I referred the Q’s about different chemical compounds back to Adam Kerrin as he’s the expert on that…! So they’re worth a read…

Anyway, long story short, I wax all the chains on all the bikes in my household because it’s simply easier, cheaper and more efficient (in every possible way) than using drip lubes. I’ve both made my own wax to Jason Smith’s original recipe and now use Molten Speed wax as it’s the same recipe. Jason now makes a wax that he says is more efficient - which is what they use on their UFO chains - but it’s unlikely to be hugely different to Molten Speed wax. Adam did tell me what he thought the added material was likely to be but I’ve forgotten now, I’m afraid…! To be honest, the losses when using a clean and waxed drive train are so low that we really are talking very small margins - especially compared to a black, sticky, dirty drive train…

Just to be 100% clear - I have no vested interest in any of these things other than exactly the same as you guys - I just become a little bit obsessed by things with a quest to find definitive and independent answers to things that often manufacturers don’t quite give us all the right data for (see the Ceramic Speed/Muc Off testing data issues) https://www.ceramicspeed.com/en/cycling/journal/an-open-communication-on-muc-offs-claims-on-testing/

Josh Poertner at Silca (in the above video someone posted) is a bona fide legend with these things (if you listen to Marginal Gains, you’ll know what I’m talking about - he worked with Cancellara on the Roubaix campaign and worked out how much Tub pressure would be lost by the time they got to the trickiest sectors so that they filled them with the right pressures at the start for later in the race - if you look at pictures of Spartacus in that race, there’s Sharpie on the tan walls - that’s Josh’s notes on pressures etc - the maths for all this is baffling…!) - anyway, I bring him up because in the Podcast he categorically states that waxing chains is the most efficient method. Jason Smith, Adam Kerrin and Josh Poertner all state that waxing chains is the most efficient method and any drip wax is second best but exist as there will always be a barrier to people wanting to use waxed chains - the best drip lubes on test are: Silca NFS and Squit. Take a look at both (successful) World Hour Records that Josh has worked on - they both used wax chains - even if the ones that they say they used possibly weren’t… :wink:

Right, I hope that’s been of some use - I have spent 100’s of hours digging on this for the same reasons as you guys and will never go back to drip lube. It’s too simple not to.

Oh, I really should tilt you towards Adam Kerrins work at Zero Friction - but go via the Cycling Tips article as it’s pretty much everything that I’ve told you here - it’s a good read…

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Or just get @Hammerer to switch on links for you … :smile:

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@theslingerland links should work now

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Amazing - thanks man - just doing some S&C and I’ll edit the post in a bit - thanks so much!!

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Thanks for a really great post. I am already a convert to Molten Speed wax

The one improvement I don’t see is increasing the life of my chains. Have not actually measure my chain life, but going on perception of how many chains I buy (I regularly check my chain wear)

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Have you seen the new drip wax from Silca? If not then check out Josh’s videos on the Silca Youtube channel. Best of both worlds!

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Great post. Thanks for sharing that!

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No problem at all - good to share some of the nerdy research I’ve been doing.

Bottom line is this - a ‘fast’ chain (because it’s efficient) will also last longer (because it’s efficient) - the things that make a chain ‘slow’ (predominantly friction losses, but not exclusively) are also the same things that will wear a chain out faster.

Indeed - Friction Facts set out to research drive train efficiency and Zero Friction researches chain longevity - they are, in essence, the same thing…

If you want to read something detailed and very interesting about the marketing (and believe me, there’s a lot more to this that lawyers would have had a field day if they’d been written) of some lube companies, then have a read of this - there’s a LOT of money in bike chain lubes and a lot of people are very keen to protect that… as with anything…

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I have - and I have some - but as with anything, the best of both worlds is a compromise somewhere - Even Josh Poertner himself says wax is the most efficient - as I said, both hour records he was involved with (and, in fact all the others I can find data on) used waxed chains.

But I do have both the Silca and Squirt. I don’t use them anymore though.

More than welcome!

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What’s the real world ramifications of that though? A few seconds on an hour record is massive and potentially career defining. A few seconds of Joe Average riding up Box Hill for the first time … not so much. Flippant example, but you get my point. It seems that triathletes in particular have this tendency to over analyse and obsess about the tiniest of things, when they may not make a blind bit of difference in the real world. Obviously if you simply enjoy the challenge of putting the puzzle together, then it doesn’t really matter. Hopefully my point is in there somewhere!

Sums-up my feelings. Squirt is fairly cheap, easy to apply and gets me nearly ‘all the way’. I’ll worry about cleaning spokes with vinegar if I’m ever in the BC Olympic squad; meanwhile, I’ll try to keep a good chain line and stay fit :sweat_smile: (oh, and turtle)

@Jorgan & @gingerbongo it almost sounds as if you guys have young kids at home to entertain & don’t have the time to fanny about with slow cookers in the garage :joy: :rofl: :joy:

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My slow cooker arrived today :grin:

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… and he’s got 2 young kids!!!

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Yep, that’s my point - each to their own. I do enjoy the research. Each person makes their own choices based off their experiences and own agendas, of course!

Waxing a chain is easier for me now than dealing with lube. So, I stick to that process.

I’m very out of shape at the moment due to injuries but I was ok at racing once, perhaps one day if I can get back to where I was it may have an impact on my race results once more but for now I’m happy to do digging on things that interest me…!

Oh yeah, and I’m married with kids and have a full time job… :wink:

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We’re talking about the same stuff right the ‘super secret chain lube’ released only days or a few weeks ago?

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Honestly after the winter we’ve just had and the amount of rain I rode in.

I’ve spent friggin ages cleaning and lubing my chains

I’m now a man in my mid 30s genuinely excited about waxing my chains :man_facepalming:t2::rofl:

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If you ride a waxed chain in the wet, you have to clean and re-lube it again; they are optimal in dry conditions.

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Ah, it might seem not actually! I’ll look into this a bit more - sorry, I wasn’t aware of this one! Looks very interesting!