@gingerbongo are the chainsets the same ratio on both bikes?
Normally 53/39 or 50/34.
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Oh come on Doony, you know i have no F**ng idea !! 
I’d have to go out with my tipex and count them!
But probably not.
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These will have a bearing on how easily you can get up hills as much as the rear cassette.
50/34 will be the spinnier one.
(I’m trying to use non-techy words for you 
)
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Hint: it’s probably written on the chainring 
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#experts eh? What do they know?!
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So it’s a 52-36 on the Trinity
And would you believe it, a 52-36 on the Endurace.
Are the hangers on the rear mech the same length? There are cassette ratio limits depending on whether it’s a long cage.
Worth checking if your brake pads are carbon specific too. Obviously not an issue if you have an aluminium track on the disc
No. Looks like the hangar is much bigger on the roadie.
Alu braking surface on the front wheel. Will have to check the disc. Rear brake is about as good as putting my foot on the floor anyway. My bike shop mate when he was just trying to get it functional said he nearly set fire to it multiple times. Perfect for Wales!
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Makes sense, I think the biggest cog you’ll get on the TT is a 30, maybe 32 but shifting won’t be as smooth with bigger jumps, but you aren’t likely to notice if they’re set up right. 36/30 should easily get you up the hills at Tenby.
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Cheers Jeff. I’ll have a think and see what sort of price a 30-12 or 11 is.
Would certainly be helpful to have a bit of spin factor to save the run legs. 
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Been looking on Merlin myself the last couple of days, think ultegra was £55 and 105 might have been a tenner less. You might find them cheaper or a second hand one with low use.
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I’d definitely not want to ride 36-27 at Wales. I had 36-34 last year and Wisemans was OK with that. 36-30 would be noticeably more of a grind I reckon.
I got a specific longer cage rear mech for the TT with both Mallorca and Wales in the offing. Also then meant I had it available for the roadie which was also only short cage*. Di2 does mean swapping them over is a lot easier though, and just plug n play.
*stupidly then forgot to put it on for the Alps last year 
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I’ve had a go at bleeding the brakes on the Propel tonight after them going very squishy in Copenhagen.
Only done the front but it’s a lot better and the old fluid was practically new, no dirt or anything but it’s a summer only bike and only done about 4K KM’s
Pretty chuffed so far, need to do the rear but things would be a lot easier with a decent workstand.
Might need to find a long straight road to test them outside though 
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Partially stripped the seat post clamp bolt when tightening despite it being a torx and using a torque wrench and it not being done up to spec.
Contacted Trek, they couldn’t tell me the bolt size / spec but happy to post one out. Thought maybe I could replace with a better quality bolt / titanium.
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The thing you’ve got to be careful of is that it’s better to strip the bolt than the frame.
A bolt made of cheese makes damaging the frame very unlikely even if you have to replace the bolt occasionally.
I think I got it to 5nm which is very low compared to the marking on the clamp.
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Is this chain ring dead?
Chain still seems to have more than 0.75. Ok to keep the chain?
Yes it’s dirty. Cheap tiagra workhorse blah blah.
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Looks quite worn, but is it causing any problems. Chain falling off or slipping? If no problems I would leave it for now. Especially if its just a workhorse.
I almost went over the bars this morning out the saddle going uphill
Only happened once, but that’s usually a sign for more to follow inc pulling off at lights.