Can’t see their winters being like ours ![]()
Schwalbe marathons will be great resistance training as well, might as well tie a car tyre to your seatpost and drag it along for maximum effect ![]()
Can’t see their winters being like ours ![]()
Schwalbe marathons will be great resistance training as well, might as well tie a car tyre to your seatpost and drag it along for maximum effect ![]()
Oh what part of the world…no, wait, I don’t want to know do I? ![]()
All 3 of those, but I think in the order 1) thorns 2) pinch flats 3) sharp stones.
The riding is on and off kerbs, odd ramps, evasive manouvres from land cruisers in the last 5km, that is where the pinch flats happen like today. The first 15km is cycle track and that’s where the thorns getcha like a couple days ago.
MTB would proably be ideal, but too slow really.
This probably rules out all UK experience of what a good tyre for conditions is though, as temperature of it all is going to be completely different so it who knows! still think identifying the cause will help.
Am I being ignorant or is sand going to be the major wear factor out there? You still get freezing nights though.
Over here it’s the rain washing the oil, nail and glass onto the roads (I think oil leaks more frequent in winter too) that is that fucks us up. But at the end of the day Gators still have great puncture resistance.
There’s not much sand the way I cycle in, but there is a sort of oily dust that the chain picks up. I do think the heat is a factor in the punctures too, and that should get less soon. The canyon came with Schwalbe One 25C tyres, i’m thinking maybe slapping on 28 or even 32 if the wheels will take them ??
Width may allow lower pressures which might help you but themselves don’t add any puncture resistance. Iirc.
Well the width can help with the pinch flats and the lower pressures can help with the flint - since the flint is often pushed into the tyre more and more at only after a few days in the tyre will it puncture particularly after a re-inflation - checking the tyre and removing any flints is the real solution to that.
But again, the conditions and the sort of flints could render all the knowledge I have here wrong!
Rim brakes?
Always worth wiping off the brake pads or replacing them. I’ve found all sorts in them when commuting heavily.
I had them on my fixie, didnt realise how slow they were until I stuck some spare 4 seasons on. Great for training and think it was 1 p in about 5 years on same tyres, until i’d skidded the back one bare
OK I’m liking the sound of Schwalbe marathons thanks ![]()
No idea if I’m going to be able to find them here but will have a go
Just one thing from those who have used them, are they OK to get on and off? I had a pair of schwalbe somethings once that were almost impossible to remove without serious leverage, would not want to be caught out at the side of the road
To be honest i don’t remember having to take them on and off and you’ll be unlikely to do that often anyway. They can take a round from Dirty Harrys 44 Magnum and not puncture so you shouldn’t need to.
they were ok, bit tight but nothing too bad. I think rims make the most difference there. My cross bike I struggled with the 4 seasons, yet they went on the fixie with thumbs!
I think folding versions are easier to get on/off.
It’s not wet, is it?
I’d try some Vittoria Zaffiro Pro.
Crap grip.
But I’ve punctured once in about ten years on them - the sidewall cracks and wears out before the actual tread, too ![]()
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I stopped using them after one or two brown trouser moments in the wet, but they were sturdy
Well, yeah.
That’s why I mentioned the grip ![]()
You can’t go too fast around Manchester City centre on a fixie though ![]()
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If you want something with decent puncture resistance but that are a bit nicer to ride have a look at Schwalbe Durano Plus. Been my go to winter tyre for years
I found moving to fatter tyres made the most difference when commuting, 28 or 31mm and no more punctures.
I’ve been using Continental 4 or 5 season tyres (or whatever they’re called these days) and they’ve been great for the two winters I commuted through.
Can’t say the same for the bike, those winters really fucked all the moving parts. Cheshire has very gritty roads from the sandstone bedrock.
I guess tubeless would be worth considering??
Not sure if this is the best place to ask this but am considering an upgrade on my cycling waterproof … it would be hard to have something that’s lower spec than what I currently use.
I need to buy something quickly before I forget how awful it was at times last week ![]()
Spec:
This is what I’ve been thinking of getting:
This looks OK too - I have good experience of the FS260 range:
https://www.wiggle.com/p/endura-fs260-pro-adrenaline-race-cape-jacket?color=white&sizeStandard=L