You can flip that stem and it will be lower; looks like it’s in the ‘high’ position. Another 30mm on the stem length will feel massive. I’d try flipping the stem first, that would take some of the strain off your arms/shoulders, as that’s an aggressive ‘mantis’ position.
How far have you ridden in that position so far? You’ll also find that out on the road it will feel different than the trainer, due to road buzz.
as an aside, I just checked the bike geometry and if anything its on the big side for me. I’m 5’8 and a half. Geometry says 5’10 to 6’. But I do look a bit cramped on it.
When I rode a Stealth it was an L, and I’m a whisker under 6’. Of course body proportion also plays it’s part; my height is more in my body than my legs.
I would say that the saddle looks too high, as a starter you should be able to put your heel on the pedal with a straight leg. At the moment you the foot looks too extended.
Reducing the saddle height will also reduce the stress on the arms
A bike fitter is certainly able to give better advice than me, however there are other things you can do if you don’t want to spend the money: I have an app called Bike Fast Fit, I used it to fit my TT bike, when I did get a proper bike fit more than a year later, the fitter hardly changed my bike fit at all (but did identify some changes to technique and body position).
regarding your stem, it looks like you have a standard 6% slope on the stem, I agree with Jorgan that it is in the high position (ie sloping 6% up) reversing it will drop quite a bit. If it is already sloping down, then you can get a stem with a 17% slope. If you have a good LBS, they often have stock of second hand stems, or they may let you try a longer stem, I would probably have a go with 120mm.
As a test, find a nice hill with around 5% to 6% slope (ideally 1km long), see how it feels to ride up it in the aero position. This should give you an indication if your position is too extreme, as you will find it difficult to achieve (this is my personal test, and may be complete rubbish, but it does work for me).
I was just thinking exactly the same… you can see that your body appears to be leaning sligtly towards the downward stroke side, indicating a very high saddle. Get someone to film you from the front an see if you rock side to side. Lower saddle by 0.5cm until your shoulders and pelvis are horizontal
No, I don’t believe you can natively. But if you upload to youtube and then include the URL in your post (assuming your account is such that you can post links) then it will actually embed the video in your post directly I believe
In the Video, saddle height doesn’t look too bad, maybe a fraction high
You have very low mobility in both ankles, especially the right, although it is hard to see as it is the other side of the frame, try dropping your heals at the bottom of the pedal stroke, a slightly lower saddle will help you to do this.
Try playing with step to see if it makes a difference, current one doesn’t look too bad in the video though
I have tried Mantis position… one issue was that I carry a hydration system on the bars, with such a big incline, I can’t drink half of the water
Genuine question - is it important to have flatter heels at the bottom of the stroke or is that just a means to an end? I get that thinking about scraping mud can help people visualize a smoother pedal stroke - but isn’t the important thing really that you engage the core and keep the pelvis still?
You’re obviously right that a saddle that’s too high and causing a rocking motion is a bad thing, and the pointy toes might be a symptom of that, but is having flat feet at the bottom of the stroke necessarily the goal?
I think that lower heals at the bottom of the stroke help maintain more power through the bottom of the stoke. On my right side I lift my heal more and power phase ends at 216 degrees, on my left, I am much better at keeping my heal low and power phase ends at 221 degrees