Worse than that, I took the C to C cable that came with my Google phone on my bikepacking trip round Wales to save a few grams as I had a plug with a standard USB and a USB-C port.
It only worked on my phone and wouldn’t charge my rear light or earbuds.
I had to buy another cable at the Spar in Machynlleth
The estimated time to finish function is dreadful, I eventually removed the field from the display. Every ride, long or short, it would massively overestimate how long it would take and only get to an accuarate number when I was 1 or 2 miles from the finish.
I thought it would ‘learn’ but it never did.
So, as alluded to in my post just now, I’ve had charging problems on my 830 on and off since late August.
Prior to that it occasionally leaked charge if not used for a few days (it might be on 60 or 70% at the start of a ride).
Basically, for whatever reason, during the past 6 weeks, sometimes I plug it in and it doesn’t charge.
I’ve had a cold for a couple of days so checked it this evening and it was completely dead.
However, I’ve dug out a different cable and it is now charging on my laptop as I type.
Has anyone else had similar problems? Should I suck it up and return to Garmin for a battery replacement?
I’ve used it, it was alright but not perfect, but was pairing it with Zwift.
I can’t remember if it was more accurate than the watch that did the same, fairly sure it was but I haven’t tried the 965 yet.
I’ll see if I can test them again. I know if I record a treadmill run on the 965 it lets me alter the final distance, but any splits wouldn’t be very accurate.
I understand that these days Garmin is using you all your outdoor running telemetry to estimate your indoor running speed.
And I was on the treadmill yesterday. So I think if you run indoors with good form then it’s accurate enough, if you slouch off a bit like me then it dives.
I hope I’m giving you good directions here but the watch should report speed (through the virtual run activity) based on how you run outside, so no calibration beyond running outside is needed.
Zwift itself offers calibration at different speeds on the treadmill, which in my experience just FUCKS everything up and is really frustrating.
In my opinion, there are two ways to approach indoor running:
You want the treadmill speed to be you source of truth. Use the Runcline phone app, manually set the speed, forget Garmin
You want your physiology to be the source of truth (~ how hard you are working), let Garmin virtual run send speed and accept it’s ‘good enough’
So I’m not wanting it for treadmill running, I’m looking at using it for helping pace Hyrox. Which is something like 2x 500m laps X 8 inside the NEC for example. And I’d like a reasonably accurate idea of the pace I’m going at and from the what I can work out. The strap will do a much better job of this than my FR265.
@Sowler I did a bit of testing with my HRM-Pro+ tonight
Did 6K on the treadmill at 11/11/12/13/13/15kph and compared what was on the treadmill to the strap and recorded on the 965. Pretty accurate really (assuming the treadmill was calibrated). When my watch buzzed for 6K the treadmill was on 6.1K.
It was fairly accurate but seemed to lose it a bit more as I got faster, but only a couple of metres. It’s also almost a brand new strap, unsure if it has logic to try and learn, also my running isn’t that consistent given a lot of it is on trails\hills.
I also recorded it on Strava which was 350M longer despite calibrating it beforehand, but I’m not sure if Strava got clever and tried to change my pace on the declines?
Anyway, if you are bored here’s the Garmin workout, note the splits also include the treadmill increasing speed so the first was starting from zero, despite ending up at 11Kph if that makes sense?
Anyway, overall conclusion is that it is pretty accurate for me, but that’s slightly different to doing 500M laps I guess which will probably be a lot quicker than what I did.
Thanks for the detailed reply @jeffb I’ve made a purchase! It’s the pace I’m most interested in. Distance less so.
According to DCR the strap does do some learning and you need to run with it outdoors at a variety of paces to get the best from that, but it’s all done automatically you don’t need to do anything specifically. Which means I’ll need to get a run or two in before Saturday! I think we are looking at aiming for 4:20 Kms.
I believe that is what it does. Or thats how understand what I’ve read anyway! Whether it can read past data from all the run metrics I’ve recorded with the HRM Tri I have no idea.
I have the pro, which I use in hotel gyms. On the treadmil it reads a little fast at slower pace, as pace increases it gets more accurate, its not perfect, error is around 3-5%
You could set strava to private and then just make public ones you want seen? Or are you wanting to limit what is sent to strava to track say only running?
There might be a bridging app out there. I use one called HealthFit that is used to sync from Apple health to other services. On there you can select each one as either auto or manual sync but that is pulling from the Apple reservoir.
Having said that. If you are on iOS You could try downloading health fit and setting up so your activity appear there. Then add Strava as a service and set to manual there you can manually sync to Strava from there
You can turn off auto-sync, and then manually upload the files you want, either by pushing from Garmin or drag and drop the .fit file. But sync, is sync, all activities appear in both places.
I do as @itom150 suggests. Default is to upload as private, then I delete or edit and make public.
