Although I saw some brief clips of Toby I did watch a 45 minute or so highlights of the climbing finals on Discovery+ yesterday. He was amazing. Actually they all were bloody impressive.
I enjoyed the commentary as well as the commentators can comment on how people are working their way up the wall with the benefit of seeing the previous attempts whereas the climbers have no idea what’s ahead of them until they walk out to the wall.
https://forum.tritalk.co.uk/t/first-trans-athlete-at-olympics/2679/659
Just seen this announced, crazy decision when we will have, flag football, softball, lacrosse, cricket and squash! Maybe I can start a national flag football org and get a team of tritalkers together 
We’ve got a tritalker ref already (assuming the officials can officiate it as well as the “real” game) but I imagine that means the organisation is already well organised here, maybe need to get fruity to get us all in through one of the gulf states…
I think they are too busy repatriating Kenyan distance runners
I have no idea what flag football is?!
I can’t see there being no boxing at a home USA Olympics, they traditionally field a super good team and gets loads of golds more importantly these go on to be world champs in short order
Floyd and RJJ were both robbed badly but went on to become generational fighters
They’ve officially announced no boxing, but they have to back track. Its one of the main sports of Olympics, over 100years!
Saw a podcast show with a few pundits on it last night
It’s reviewed at the end of next year
The IOC and IBA are really not getting on, the XY girl issue is one of several serious high profile problems, if it’s half as corrupt as pro boxing it’s in a mess
American football but instead of tackling you grab a little flag from their pants. A bit like rugby for under 9’s. 
Don’t go grabbing things in under 9’s pants… I’m out!
They have time at the start to analyse the wall, I think it was 10 minutes??
They actually said that Toby was the only one (or one of the only ones) to not work it in a group.
I’ve spent a bit of time thinking through why it was so good, it’s been years since I watched competition climbing and tbh it was originally a bit dull.
As the sport has developed, they seem to me to have improved on a few elements to get to where they were in the Olympics (lead only,).
Apologies if I’m being patronising to anybody.
First, the route is obvious, there’s nothing to confuse the eye, the holds are the holds and there’s clean white space in between.
Second is a bit technical. At the easiest level of climbing, there are multiple choices of foothold and handhold (think of a scramble like Crib Goch or Striding Edge). As you get into graded climbs, there tend to be mulitple choices of handhold and foothold but as you go up the grades, both the quality and frequency of hold goes down. Once you get to extreme (E) grades, you start to lose ‘footholds’, in other words, hands and feet are using different bits of rock. The very best climbers are typically the ones who use their feet best, to reduce weight/stress on the arms.
What they did at the olympics, mostly in the first half of the route was to put big areas of first white and then yellow blocks to use for feet which meant that (I think) it wouldn’t matter what size or shape you were, you could get your feet where you wanted. I think all this is to minimise the number of people failing low down.
Footwork only became really technical on the final section of the wall. What does for Toby is that he hasn’t got time to sort his feet out on the move where he falls.
Related to the above, the way the route was structured was clever.
First half - not overly technical, plenty of choice, very steep
Third quarter - not many footholds and an outrageous outward facing move
Final quarter - the really technical bit to separate the best from the rest
The first 3/4 had lots of moments where body position had to switch, which always looks good but really were aimed at tiring people out; in other words it was all about energy conservation for the climbers and a viewing spectacle for us.
If you watch the final Japanese climber, he’s very jerky, misses a clip and spends a bit too much time in high energy positions. As he passes the silver medal position you can see (if you look carefully) his left arm vibrating slightly. I called it that he was done as he dropped half a move and, to be fair, the commentator said something about him looking uncomfortable.
Climbing at any standard, is a combination of physical ability & fitness and also problem solving under stress. As you get tired, that cognitive element starts to fail. It’s the cognitive element that differentiates it from most other sports because the holds are always in different places.
I guess the fighting sports are similar, I saw a lot of bouts won in the last 15 seconds as the winner was able to execute hits against a tired opponent who couldn’t move quickly or smartly enough to avoid being hit.
A couple of weeks before Bannister’s 4 minute mile, he wasn’t hitting his splits in training due to stress and so they went away climbing where your total attention and focus is on the climb…
Never knew that but can absolutely relate to it.
Back when I first started climbing seriously, every crag was a long way from London - c3hrs to the Peak, 5/6hrs to Snowdonia etc. And yet, even with all the driving over a weekend, I’d come back completely refreshed mentally.
No question that he’s eligible to compete for GB, but looks odd to switch after winning 3 Olympic medals for Australia 
I wonder if this is down to funding available in the UK? I think the earning potential for a track sprinter is significantly less than for an endurance rider who can race on the road
I didn’t know the transfer window had opened 
So, the paralympics awaits…
i have sent good luck messages to Mel Nichols and Brooke Gillies (guide) who i am lucky to be coach developing and will send one to Ryan Taylor who deserted tri for paracycling whom i’ve had the pleasure to coach with…
i think it was the fear of the open top bus tour of Aus with Raygun…
With the Para Tri races Sunday & Monday here are our guys:
1st September
07:15 PTS3 Men
Henry Ulrand, World rank 5, Olympic rank 9.
Henry’s pretty new to triathlon transitioning from cycling, he’ll struggle in the swim but a good bike & probably a field best run can absolutely medal.
07:20 PTS2 Men my class😢
9:15 PTS4 Men
Michael Taylor, WR 4, OR 10
Mike is a strong swimmer & fast on the bike, he’ll be holding on for the run. Definitely up for a medal if the race goes his way.
9:20 Women PTS5
Lauren Steadman, WR 4, PR11
Lauren I’m sure you know.
Claire Cashmore, WR 2, PR 1.
Claire transitioned from swimming, she’s a gem as has been said before, gone out of her way to make me feel welcome. I don’t think Claire or Lauren have beaten the American so likely both with be racing for Silver.
9:25 PTS4 Women
Hannah Moore WR 4, PR 4
Solid all round, fast swim, will be racing for a medal.
Megan Richter WR 3, PR 9
I think Megan’s a step behind Hannah but a medal is possible if the race goes her way.
2nd September
7:25 PTWC Women
Mel Nicholls WR 7, PR 6
Always top 3 in her races so definitely a medal contender. EJ said he’s had some involvement so maybe can add some more.
09:00 Men VI
Dave Ellis WR 1, PR1
Dave’s won all his races this year deffo on for gold. Man those tandem bikes are fast, it’s like being overtaken by a motorbike.
Oscar Kelly WR 6, PR7
Oscar will be hoping for a podium but will need the race to go his way.
9:10 PTVI Women
Alison Peasgood WR 7, PR 11
Alisons recently given birth, so I’ve not seen much of her racing but looking at her past races a podium is possible if she has a good race.
Everyone’s dealing with some issue in Para triathlon so there’s more to go wrong & races can be unpredictable so everyone’s in with a chance of a result.
Have they made any decision about the swim? Will it now be a point to point swim?
I don’t know any more than what’s in the Media. My experience of World Triathlon with so many moving parts, event change right up to the last minute is almost inevitable & you just have to be prepared for that.
They have in previous years but not this season I think. Claire is nailed on for a medal and could get gold if things go well - Lauren hasn’t raced much this season for various reasons, some personal. Both are lovely people and always willing to interact with us TOs and public - Lauren has the hots for our dog!!
Dave Ellis is also a guarantee gold provided he doesn’t have a mechanical as per Tokyo, although the French pair are improving a lot.
Not sure about any of our other paratris getting on the podium but as you say, on a good day, many of them are capable.