New bike? (Procrastinating thread #3)

Looks nice. Always good to see the pics after the discussion. Interesting to hear feedback once you’ve got used to the gears

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No idea how campag works, but the beauty of electric gearing (at least with di2) is you can change the buttons to whatever you want in the app. So if you want each button to do something different, you can.

I believe all the new di2 iterations have the wireless module built in so you can do that? (versus previous di2 versions where you needed to attach the wireless module)

105 di2 is definitely 12sp. Does seem like you miss out on the hidden buttons in the hoods for changing pages on your bike computer, triggering laps, etc.

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Oh wow, that’s cool.

It seems - I’m calling them front and back buttons on each shifter - the left front moves me up to the big ring (with a sound) the right front brings me down a gear on the cassette. Confuses the heck out of me.

Also the left front doesn’t shift up unless I press it low down.

Ride was great fun. Such a clean quiet smooth ride and shifting. Haven’t been to box hill in years, beautiful. I am now fully jealous of Surrey.

There were a few noisy clunky moments which I think is that plastic thing the shop insisted I keep on for a week or two in case the chain shifts off the inside of the cassette - seems pretty unlikely to me…

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:rofl: They clearly have no faith in their mechanics…

Congrats on the new steed :grin:

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Proof the new bike is faster/worth it

:sweat_smile:

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Nor do 99% of bike shop ‘mechanics’ :roll_eyes:

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The default is how all shimano manual STI shifters work. Main “levers” make the gear easier (left = front, right = rear). The inner smaller “levers” make the gear harder.

How does campag mechanical work? I’ve never used anything other than shimano, and what I’ve seen of Sram seems really weird to me. Same with etap. Why do I need to press two levers to make one shift?

Anyway, if you really are confused, you can always enable synchro shifting on di2. Effectively just make one set of buttons “easier”, one set of buttons “harder”, and the di2 will sort out the switch over from big to little ring and vice versa for you.

I’ve never really liked it tbh, but is now basically required on new di2 TT bikes as they all come with single button shifters. Not sure what I’ll do if my older two button shifters broke. Guess I’d have to make the switch.

I have used semi-synchro quite a bit in the past. That means you still manually trigger the front shift, but it will then automatically make some rear shifts for you to smooth out the jump. You can set how many in the app. So for example, you shift from small to big, and it will jump up a couple of sprockets on the rear, or the reverse when going from big to small so you dont get that moment where you need to shift but by doing so you end up wildly spinning the legs as the gear is overly easy. Tbh though, on my road bikes, I just have everything manual.

One other thing to be aware of is that di2 will prevent certain cross chaining combinations. It didn’t bother on 6870 11sp series, but the r8050 11sp series on my newest road bike blocks the final two smallest sprockets in the little ring. 12sp may well have more instances where it does stuff like that. I don’t know.

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I’ve got Sram & Shimano & the Sram if far more intuitive to me, left lever moves the chain to the left, right lever moves to the right. Double tap to change the front.

Shimano I have to figure out every ride.

You say the big lever makes it easier, maybe so but this is opposite to mechanical as you need the mechanical advantage of the big lever to go up the cassette.

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1X (12 speed) on my road/gravel bike, Sram. One button easier, one button harder. Also much easier to carry a spare battery. Love it.

Di2 shimano on TT - enabled synchro shifting. Quite like it. Shifting to the big ring on front can be a bit funny when going uphill but allows me to keep it simple stupid and have the same set up as my sram with simple 1 button easy/ 1 hard. Headset will beep before a chainring shift so you are aware. As stenard says, on etube app you can basically play around with the settings as you wish.

Huh? The big lever on di2 is equivalent to shifting the whole brake lever on mechanical. That goes up the cassette as you say, which makes it easier. So we’re saying the same thing? The smaller inner lever on di2 is the equivalent of the small (single) inner lever on mechanical.

There’s a reason it comes that way out of the box on di2. Because it’s a direct replication of how mechanical sti’s work.

Eta - guess it depends what you call the “big lever”. I mean it’s the longest one. I appreciate it’s not the fattest one

Yep your right :thinking:, don’t know what it is but I ride the winter bike half the time on Di2 and it always takes me 10 minutes or so to figure it out again.

Never a problem with Sram & I’ve heard the same feedback fom all my mates whove gone Sram (the actual shifting is better on Shimano no question there).

Maybe your big lever -easy method will stick in the grey matter.

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Now I think some more :thinking:, that’s not true for the front mech is it? On mechanical you need the big lever to shift to the big ring.

Di2 is backward I tell thi :grinning:

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Guess if you switch between groupsets then it might take a bit more time. All our bikes are shimano and we have old 8sp with a thumb shifter, 10sp 105, 11sp 105, 11sp ultegra di2 and 11sp ultegra TT di2.

All of the road bikes just naturally interchange…the way you change gear on any of the mechanical versions just naturally crosses over to di2.

On the TT, it’s different as on both shifters they are just top and bottom buttons. So on both brakes and extensions, I have it set such that top button goes “up” either the cassette or front rings, and bottom button goes “down” them. That’s always easy to remember.

I sort of get what you’re saying about sram, but pressing levers at the same time on etap always seemed too much effort. Probably being silly, but just my interpretation. And I honestly have no idea how double tap mechanical worked. I’m probably just biased because I’ve never used it so being overly dismissive

Indeed not.

It is the front, smaller button/lever shifts you up into the harder big chain ring.

On the right shifter it is the back, bigger button that shifts you up into the harder, smaller cog on the cassette.

Red harder, green easier

IMG_5440

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Exactly. I’m not normally more clued up than anyone on how bikes work but I’ve had mechanical Dura Ace, Ultegra and 105 and they all work the same way with the big left hand lever moving you onto the large chain ring.



Okay, legs are done now

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100% on the sram.

Just seems natural

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I have a combo of SRAM ETAP and Di2, and Shimano mechanical. I like the double tap on the SRAM to do the front mech but only have bar end switches so no idea what it would be like on a road bike.

I do have the double buttons for my tri-bars for the Di2 but in reality rarely use the front mech as I don’t do really hilly races very often.

Years ago for Campy manual I’m sure you used to push the entire lever inwards to change up, and there was a thumb button on the inside of the hood to change down. Sounds odd but worked quite well, not sure if they changed that though, it would have been nearly 20 years ago.

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:+1:

The multi shift on Sram red 10 speed is brill
Road bike.

Hold it in and it shifts down multiple gears very quickly, I really like it and can now guess we’re it ends up … ish.

I need a new groupset for my e116 but I’ll probably go sram again to be honest

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