Yo! (Mainly @Sowler )
How the hell do you seat WTB 37C tyres onto the Fulcrum Red rims?
Do I need an air gun or something?
Will a CO2 cartridge work?
I’ve stuck a tube in, seated one side of the tyre bead, deflated, got the tube out, but now just cannot get the tyre to seat 
A CO2 might work. Ideally a flash pump is needed, or a compressor but generally only bike shops have those.
One of these is 64% likely to work every time:
Sometimes even that doesn’t work and you need to do the ratchet strap trick. There’s a thread on tubeless installation hassles on that other inferior forum TrainerRoad.
I had a nightmare installing Vittorias on my tubeless Zipps. So much so that I’ll never buy tubeless Vittoria again. I’ve only ridden clincher WTB though.
Yeah - I’m aware I can use that “Google” thing 
But you guys do all the hard work for me so I can just relax 
Anyways, off to Sunny Scarborough now.
Tyres will have to wait for later 
Would the pump at the garage work?
What’s this “ratchet” trick?
EDIT: ooh! That seems good.
Or, inner tube over the outside of the tire, inflate that to hold tire, then inflate tire.
This video is worth a look The SECRET TO INSTALLING TUBELESS WITH A FLOOR PUMP (no air compressor or charger) | Syd Fixes Bikes - YouTube (if you haven’t got them on yet). Definitely no expert and different rims but so far 
have managed with a track pump. You can use a tube to get the whole of one side on and then this technique to get ~50% of the remaining side on. I reckon start 1/4 of a turn away from the valve and work past it. Also, bone dry rim and bead, I think. Good luck!
Cheers. I managed to do that with a floor pump.
Just air is leaking out of the rim bed, so they’ve not seated 100%
I inflated to 100psi and still no massive pops.
Still leaking air.
Rode with tubes yesterday.
My Mavic rims and their own tyres come on and off with great difficulty, but seat nicely, make the pop sound and hold air.
I do that and leave them for a bit first, before adding any sealant.
Sounds like you need to sort out your rim tape then. I’m no expert on tubeless but when I did mine it was just pump-pump-pump-pop-pop done
Bed or bead?
I don’t normally use the inner tubes to seat and always managed with a track pump except for once but I don’t think they were Tubeless ready tyres. If its being difficult. Give both sides of the tyre bead a good covering in very soapy water to help them pop on and seal to get on the rim/bead. Remove valve core to allow for max airflow to help get the initial seat. If air is just escaping all over when trying to seat, try hold the tyre down and adding more soapy water etc.
If you’ve pumped them up to 100 psi and they haven’t fully seated, it sounds like you need to use the soapy water method to help them slide on.
Yeah, that’s what my other ones were like 
@Sowler - removed the valve core and all that jazz. Most vids I’ve watched say to do it DRY! My thumbs are in absolute agony today, though 
Sorry, rim BEAD - the side, where they have not seated properly.
I’ll go get soaped up the basement tomorrow and give it another go 
If you can seat the tyre on the rim & it’s still leaking then you need to work round the tyre getting sealant to where it’s leaking. I usually bump the wheel on the floor at 45 degrees while rotating the wheel bit by bit then repeat on the other side.
Just to clarify, this is all progress, yes?
Going to hijack the thread slightly, I’ve recently started to use my ~10 year old mountain bike as commuter for the nursery run. One thing that concerns me is getting a ‘P’ with the little one when it’s cold, dark & wet.
The inner tubes and tyres I think are original from when I bought it, so could probably do with replacing. One quick/easy option would be some slime in the inner tubes.
Is it possible that I could just use rim tape to convert to a tubeless setup?
Yes, but it’s a total ballache from what I’ve seen.
Just buy some proper “phat” tyres with an inch of “Kevlar-Teflon-Graphene 3.0 protection layer strip” (patent pending) and get some slime in them and you should be fine!!!
@Doka - I don’t usually put the sealant in the tyre until it’s actual seated and sealed against the rim Once I know that it’s properly on, it’s then I put the sealant in, otherwise it’s a massive mess and utter ballache!
Have you considered solid tyres or tyre inserts. I don’t think they’re great from a performance perspective but if it’s purely for the school run, would give pretty much total peace of mind from a puncture point of view.
Me too, pump it up without sealant to get the tyre popped onto the rim, then deflate, remove the valve core and inject the sealant in.
Just walk the bike - it’s a short journey… Or lock it up and collect it later, no point even optimising for punctures.
Yeah my experience is that if you put the sealant in without the tyre fully seated you can have issues getting the tyre sealed and it can get very messy IMO.
I have actually got a cheap single speed bike that has the solid tyres, which was my other option when fitting the child seat. I went for the MTB as I thought the MTB tyres would give a bit more grip in these current conditions (80% of the 7km route is paths covered in wet leaves). The bigger reason is there are a few hills which are a challenge when I ride it by myself, let alone with the additional weight, so the MTB gears are very welcome. Also I have very quickly learnt that getting out the saddle doesn’t work very well with a passenger! 
Fine if that works you but it sounds like it isn’t.
I know
But my thoughts are;
If it’s not sealing against the rim/bead interface and I seal that with sealant, then knock it whilst out, then that seal will break and I’ll be left with a flat tyre in the literal middle of nowhere with a right mess to deal with
Yeah, my experience is that there is a very obvious ‘pop’ when the bead seats on the rim and that is the job done for seating. You can totally see if it’s seated or not just by looking. But you may then need sealant to stop them leaking. I’m proper guessing now, but if they are leaking at the rate of a medium/slow puncture in a tube, I’d try adding sealant. Maybe do it outside and have an old towel handy to throw over any spurting. You want the leak at the lowest point so you get as much sealant around it as possible, and wheel mostly on it’s side, leak down, if it’s coming out between bead and rim.