Do you mean historic ones have corrected themselves or new ones are now showing properly as mine are still the same but haven’t swum again yet?
ETA - Just looked on desktop site and graphs look fine there so must be an app issue.
Both; new and old ones are displaying fine
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An over abundance of neutral shades can interfere with transmission. It’s sunny, so introduce some vibrant colours to your palette and the Garmin sync will unblock.
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I’ve started swimming at a new pool, and the watch is telling all sorts of over optimistic paces.
I’ve switched it up from 33m pool to 50m in settings. Does it take time to “get used to it” or is there another way?
Only other change is that rotation in the lane is clockwise rather than anti-clockwise. As I learned flip turns only last year and they’ve all been anti until now, so my turns are a bit…melodramatic. But singles are too fast as well so I don’t think that’s it.
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Changing the length will take immediate effect, and it only matters for distance. It detects lengths and multiplies by the set length.
Is it skiping lengths? It needs a strong push to detect the change in direction and hence a length.
It almost always skips one of the first four lengths in an swim session, otherwise no.
It’s the pace that’s wrong.
I can’t do 50s at 1:10/100 pace. I know historically that my 33 all outs are 1:28-1:30/100.
And the regular 100s I’m checking against the clock are 1:55/100 but showing up as 1:4x most of the time.
Some pools are faster than others, but thats a significant discrepancy.
I cant understand how that even happens. Time is simply the elapsed time been the lap button being pressed. Length is calculated by the preset pool length and detecting laps. The length is correct so its detected the correct number of lengths so hows it fucked that up.
You havent emabled the countdown feature have you and are pushing off 3 seconds ahead?
Lap start is automatic. It detects the acceleration from the wall. Lap stop is also automatic, good practice is to hold the wall for a few seconds while it decides, then it takes the few seconds off while it was deciding if you have stopped.
So it could be either the start or the stop that is off.
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Oh. I dont use that, or my watch doesnt have it. So yeah would guess something is off with that.
Today’s swim, in final 1000m I could see in my Form Goggles that my pace was dropping dramatically. Now I just looked at my pace on Garmin. As you can see it’s constantly dropping out. First 2000m pace is pretty solid 1:56/100m, last 1200m its 2:25/100m.
I suspect that I am dropping my arm as I get tired and Garmin is loosing satelite connection. Anyone else see similar in OW swimming.
Does the form goggles take the pace from the garmin or does it have it’s own gps?
My OW distance on the watch is always short, so the pace looks slow. Or at least that’s what i have been telling myself…
Form Goggles take pace from Garmin. Based on the chart above, with lots of drop outs, the distance is probably short. The goggles also show me distance, while swimming, sometimes I take 2 or 3 strokes and distance only increases by 1m
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I am going to do a bit of gentle cycle touring with my dad. I want to give him my old Garmin 820 with the routes pre-loaded. He doesn’t have a Garmin, currently uses his phone to strava track, but battery life not good enough to use as a bike computer for navigation.
So what is the process? Maser Reset on the device and set-up a Garmin account for him? How do I get the routes from my Garmin Connect onto his device? It has to be as slick as possible, ideally he would not have to use Garmin Connect at all.
I’ve heard people recommend putting the GPS device in your swim hat for better readings. But I guess that would be at the expense of the stroke rate, etc. data.
Garmin need to release a separate swim GPS pod!
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An easy option would be to load all the routes with your account then turn off wifi & delete any devices so it just never uploads.
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It doesn’t happen often, but my swim hat has come off before, would be terrified of this happening with garmin under my hat
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When I was Ironman training I was in good shape and aiming for a sub 1hr swim, whilst keeping it relaxed. Because of my size and arm length it mean my turn over was quite slow and I could feel the watch buzzing as it lost GPS at the end of the stroke. Garmin software makes up for the drops but as the drops increase it has less to work with so makes sense.
Back in the day I used to tie the watch strap of my forerunner 310xt around my goggle then wear my swim cap over the top.
This was before garmin really put any effort into swim metrics though
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One of my mates still uses one of those on his wrist for swimming. The trace is a sight to behold, he must do a mile for every 400m lap.
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