I saw a ‘hack’ as the kids say, to get the 735 through an ironman, set the bike leg up as an indoor bike, so it records all your power and hr but turns off gps. Use a bike computer to revord the gps track for speed data.
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Every tri I’ve ever done I’ve always done the swim/run on my watch then Wahoo/Edge for the bike
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I don’t even bother recording the swim nowadays. I just look at what time I start and take it from there!
Then do bike on my edge and the watch is all ready for the run.
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The 735 “hack” is one I’ve known people to use for a fair while. It’s a great option for a full on that watch, or any watch with reducing battery life.
I personally really like having the full race time on my watch. It definitely helped me hit sub10, got my under 4.30 in Bahrain, and has helped with some more ‘on the fly’ targets like sub10. 30 at Mallorca etc.
I actually like doing the detailed maths whilst on the run…it passes the time!
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Thanks, I looked into this but smart recording is the default setting.
I’ve looked at the battery modes too, the Normal mode should give me 25hrs GPS, the max mode is 50hrs but cuts off accessories so I’d lose the HRM and power.
Been through each workout setting and they’re all set to ‘normal’, so can’t find anything to switch off.
Except gesture mode? I think my watch was lighting up a lot in the dark.
I’ll drop them an email.
Has anyone used UltraTrac instead of GLONASS + GPS for recording?
FFS 
I’m an idiot 
When I created my “Gravel” profile, I’d assumed it’d mirror my road profile, just with different data screens.
NOPE 
So, it was using GPS+Glonass and Smart Rereouting
Turned that off.
Try again on Sunday. 
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Ultratrac would be useless for anything involving a bike. It only records a single data point every 30s I think, so you’d lose all the twists and turns.
Gesture mode probably does make a difference. That will automatically turn on the back light every time you raise your arm after dusk for example.
A few things to do/try…
Turn off the back light entirely (if you need to see it after dark, just tap the power button to turn it on/off as reqd)
Turn off autolap (this is linked to the above - autolaps can trigger the back light to come on even during daylight)
Turn off Bluetooth and wifi
Remove any connect iq data fields you might have within that activity profile that you dont really need
Set any sensors you won’t be using to off, so it’s not constantly scanning for them.
If you don’t need the map page, remove it from the activity profile
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Some good looking tips there I will fiddle about with it some more.
Just use GPS, don’t bother with glonass+gps, that doubles the work the watch is doing for the location - sure it’s more accurate, but so?
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How old is the Edge 520? The battery life degrades over time, so it might not be up to the advertised life anymore.
The battery life on my Wahoo Roam was great when it was new, but after 2 or 3 years it dropped off a cliff. It barely lasts for 30 minutes now on just the basic data screen and no back light
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Some of them do have replaceable batteries that you can buy and fit yourself. Pretty sure I did one once.
Got to say the battery on the new 965 is brilliant, lasts for ages, might be worse if I actually use it of course 
I don’t get long out my 1000, but it’s showing it’s age.
My 945 did see me round CCC but was at about 2% for the last 2 hours I also switched off the auto gesture light as it kept triggering when I was doing the climbs.
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Replacement batteries are £10-20 online and there’s videos on YouTube for some models on how to do the replacement. Not that I’ve tried personally. I’d be interested in seeing how hard it is if someone gives it a go. I’ve an old 800 and 510 that could be dug out and rejuvenated…
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It’s 16 months old.
Got it for £100 at Evans post-Christmas 2021.
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Replacing garmin batteries is trivial, the newer ones aren’t as easy as the 705, which is pure screwdriver and push, but I still did a 510 in no time at all, needs a soldering iron (probably, although you could likely manage just with twisting the wires together)
You will almost certainly reduce the waterproofing, but it’s very little cash for more life.
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The one I changed was just a plug, no soldering. Screws were a bit fiddly but that’s mostly because I’m so cackhanded.
Edit: might have been a 705 
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actually looks like the 800 is push only too, either way don’t be scared of the soldering it’s not difficult PCB stuff, it’s just wires that need connecting.
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I replaced the battery on my 800 & it was pretty straight forward.
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Also have it turning the screen off until you actually need to make a turn. That will improve battery life no end!
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I don’t think mine has that setting, as it’s a no touch screen version (which I wanted, I like buttons!)
Backlight at 0% also helps, depending on daylight etc.
I’ve just tried my power bank, which lost 20% charge boosting the Garmin from 73% to 100% in less than 30 minutes 
So that’s a great option for my brunch/late lunch stops 
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Can you not ride with it connected to the power bank?
Isn’t that what the ultra cyclists do?
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