What were your watts for 113?
Should’ve been about 200-odd?
What does BBS say for a road bike at that speed?
Basically, your crank arm is wrong and the turbo is correct 
Jorgan’s turn next.
Followed by Fruity.
But if my crank is over reading by 40w … there’s no way, surely, that i rode at 37kph on a roadie for 180w!!!
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Definitely not
100% agree.
Sounds about right for your crank, then.
I have nothing to compare my pedals to; but you’re measuring power at different points in the system anyway.
BUT, YOU ARE QUESTIONING THE FAVERO ASSIOMA ACCURACY? 
they are the pre-eminent pedals, nay PM, on the market.
When I had the P2Max cranks, I did a comparison of both, they tracked, with the P2M a little lower, for which it had a reputation…a VERY reliable PM though, the P2M. With a pretty much fit & forget battery.
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@gingerbongo just select your crank arm as the power source - only use the turbo as the fec for the hills etc…
Use the same power source that you do on the road then you don’t have a discrepancy and none of the bullshit of gaining/losing watts!
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At last … someone comes along with unashamed powers of clarity, able to cut through the mists of confusion.
Yeah, that makes sense doesn’t it! Will that still work in ERG mode for workouts and stuff?
(although there’s still ‘something’ not quite right, with the lack of back pedalling and the general feel of it.)
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Will 100% work for ERG
Can’t comment on the no freewheel/backpedal
It’s sounds fucked!!
Can you spin the cassette backwards without he bike attached?
That’s what i have to check. My mate said it worked fine for him … so maybe i’ve done something. Which is highly likley!
Have you popped a cassette on it then?
Maybe take it off and see if the free hub spins without it on - potentially tightening the cassette up too tight?
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He left his casette on it for me … Ultegra, whereas my bike is 105. Assuming that wouldn’t be an issue?
I have a really old, crappy skewer from my turbo on it at the mo. The Tacx has some adapter in it at the mo to fit the small skewer, but my Canyon came with the big, chucnky one. Need to work out if i can remove the casette, and the adaptors, then maybe it’ll work better with the Canyon setup.
Will be the weekend before i have the time to dig the Trinity out and hook it up, which is the plan. After which, i’ll have no power alternative to rely on until i buy some sort of power that will work on that bike (4iiii [or Stages] not compatible with the FSA cranks it has currently).
Ah right.
There won’t be an issue with 105/Ultegra
Maybe it does lie with your disc brake setup - skewer?
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Not a thru axle/QR issue is it? Not that I could see why that would stop the freehub spinning backwards.
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Possibly. I’ve always had to switch to a thru axle for my old turbo, and it’s never sat ‘right’ in the frame. Hopefully haven’t been damaging my frame!
I shall tweak tonight.
Yes it seems to have been a big for a while and occurs when the camera pans out at the top?
You can avoid by u turning before this happens so once summited.
Some people have reported success by changing camera angles to stop it happening.
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The email from Zwift suggested re-doing the ride the following day 
No fecking way was I in a hurry to ride up that mountain again
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The other issue is that the uphill stages have finished I think
Looks like it, short crit courses tonight, probably doing Neokyo (easy) at 6.
I did the New York “standard distance” route this afternoon.
Definitely not a race 
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I’ve just done Neokyo and kept it easy, although TBF I spent as much time fannying about with my Garmin & pedals
The 3 second AP on my Garmin from the pedals was about 15-20W less than the live power on the Wattbike, but I had to calibrate and change the crank length. I’ll try and dual record a race later in the week and compare. RPE actually felt somewhere in between the two!
I remember with my Kickr last year I got some odd readings while my other PM’s were in the garage and there’s at least another 3 in there so might be trial and error.
Failing that I’m also going down to Cat C but might win some races!
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